Experience Ilhabela (A Complete Travel Guide With Everything You Need To Know)

With mountain views, pretty beaches, jungle trails and about 360 waterfalls, Ilhabela (The Beautiful Island) lives up to its name.

Add hiking, surfing, great gastronomy, creative locals, wildlife, and a unique history, and you have the perfect paradise getaway. Just a short trip from São Paulo. This is where waterfall showers and sunsets that turn the sky pink will become your favorite things.

I just spent 5 months on Ilhabela and left with it at the top of my list of my favorite places in Brazil. And there is a big chance that you will, too.

Why you will fall in
love with Ilhabela

Let’s start with a few reasons why you should visit Ilhabela and probably won’t feel like leaving.

It’s surprisingly underrated

 

 It’s possible to have places like this to yourself.
 

While Ilhabela gets crowded during high season, it’s still relatively unknown outside of Brazil. Most of the tourists are Brazilians or from the countries nearby. If you come here outside of the season, it’s possible to have amazing places to yourself, such as secluded beaches, waterfalls, and viewing points.

The possibility to have private and intimate experiences has turned Ilhabela into a popular hideout for the elite in São Paulo. Over the past 20 years, dusty roads have transformed into proper ones, and tourism has increased. This will only continue, so you better visit before rumors spread.

The weather is great all-year-round

The temperature doesn’t drop much under 20 C on a cold day (daytime) in winter (June-July), which makes Ilhabela a great all-year-round destination. March-April is a good time to come if you’d like to enjoy everything with fewer crowds.

Temperatures start to decrease in May, with daytime temperatures ranging between 22-25 C, dropping to 17-19 C at night. It can get colder than this, but if you’re used to a “real winter” (as in Europe and parts of the US) it doesn’t compare.

It’s literally a paradise

 

 Praia do fome is just as pretty as it looks like.

 The mix of gorgeous beaches, hikes, views, great food, and friendly locals makes it hard not to fall in love with Ilhabela. It looks just like the pictures you get up when you google paradise. During my time here, I felt lucky just to wake up looking out, because it’s so stunning.

Events here are worth traveling for

Several events take place on Ilhabela throughout the year. New Year’s (December-January) and the Carnival (February) are celebrated big and are two of the most popular times to visit Ilhabela.

And, if you happen to really fall for an island crush, Ilhabela is a hotspot for weddings between March to November.

February

The Carnival

The Carnival is one of the peak times to visit Ilhabela. There is a parade with samba schools performing and parties taking place all over the island.

March

Kick-off for the wedding season

The wedding season starts in March and goes on until November. Getting married? Note that several businesses on Ilhabela are specialized in making your special day perfect.

If you’re not, be aware that some hotels might be booked, usually during weekends, thanks to wedding guests. Make your reservation in advance.

June

A Festa Junina

Festas Juninas, also known as festas de São João, are yearly celebrations adapted from the European midsummer that take place across Brazil. On Ilhabela, it’s celebrated with events, dance, and typical food.

July

Semana Internacional de Velas de Ilhabela

Ilhabela Sailing Week is one of Brazil’s most traditional sports events. It has been running since 1972 and usually takes place during the beginning of July. The event is held at the Ilhabela Yacht Club and attracts an international audience.

August

Festival do Camarão (The Shrimp Festival)

A week of contests, tastings, special menus, and courses taught by known national and international chefs. Stalls sell delicious mains and snacks – you will recognize the most-tries by the lines.

September – October

Festa de aniversário de Ilhabela

The island’s birthday is one of the most important happenings of the year. With big concerts, sports competitions, shows, food and more. Previous artists include Bruno e Marrone, Thiaguinho and Gustavo Lima, who all are among the most famous artists in Brazil.

Ilhabela In Jazz

Ilhabelas Jazz Festival has been running since 2014. With 20 nights of concerts it has attracted artists like James Carter, Mike Stern, Dennis Chambers, Náná Vasconcelos, Trio Corrente, Paquito D’Rivera, and many others

December

New Years

New Years is one of the highlights on the island. People often dress in white and celebrate with fireworks, beach life, and big events.

And the list goes on. We’ll get more into what makes Ilhabela so special under the following sections too.

Where to stay on Ilhabela

Whether you are into luxury, a rustic escape, or something simple but cozy, you will find a place to stay you won’t feel like leaving on Ilhabela.

DPNY hotel is the most exclusive accommodation option. Other alternatives range from charming pousadas and tropical temples to simple cabanas.

 Templo do Ser is the perfect place to disconnect on Ilhabela, while being close to it all.

Neighborhoods on Ilhabela

The south presents more deserted options, where you really can disconnect surrounded by nature and beaches. The north also offers some great beaches, while the vila (the center) and Pereque are closer to bars and restaurants.

In between, you have neighborhoods with a more local feel such as Agua Branca and Porthino, which also are good bases for exploring the island.

Wherever you base yourself, nothing is really far with a car or a motorbike on Ilhabela.

Places to stay on Ilhabela

Templo do Ser (“The Temple of Being”)

While it’s easy to get to Templo do Ser, you will feel far away from everything once you’re here. Inspired by the owner Cecilia’s love for Hawaii, you feel good from the moment you arrive. With only 8 rooms, the difference is in all the details. From the interior to the activities focused on body and mind, the team that knows your name, and the homemade breakfast.

Even if you could treat Temple do Ser as accommodation only, it’s much more than that. It’s a spiritual retreat that lets you reconnect with yourself – centered around the principles of respect, responsibility, quality, trust, and courage. The activities and treatments range from dance to therapies and meditation.

During the yoga classes, the focus is on doing everything after your ability.  The teacher Jennifer has 10+ years of experience and this calm way of being that makes it impossible to be stressed around her.

The spa menu covers everything from body awareness to ayurvedic massage, which focuses on specific energy points in the body. I try the 1,5-hour full body massage of the house. When it’s time to leave I feel like a more relaxed and improved version of myself.

In between it all, you can sip on a tea on your terrace surrounded by tropical birds, cool off in the pool, or unwind in the jacuzzi under the stars.

Extra tips
Traveling with a group? You can organize customized outings with themes at Templo do Ser. Think mindfulness mixed with visits to waterfalls, personalized menus, and more. Contact Templo do Ser to learn more about the possibilities!

Other places to stay on Ilhabela

• Mercedes Hotel
• The chain of  VELINN Pousadas, such as Pousada dos Hibiscos. These are run by different hotel managers, similar to a franchise model.

 

What to do on Ilhabela

A paradise for those who are into nature, you won’t run out of things to do on Ilhabela. Here are a few ways to spend your days.

Take a boat trip and explore distant beaches

You shouldn’t leave Ilhabela without at least a small boat adventure. Nicknamed A Cidade das Velas (The City of Sails), the options in the area are great if you’re into sailing, or enjoying life on a yacht (who isn’t, anyway?).

Several agencies offer trips that let you explore the more distant parts of the island, such as Castelhanos, Praia do Fome and Bonete. I take a day trip with Maremar, a family-run business that has been around for 20+ years.

You sail through mountains, palm trees, cute houses, with good-vibes tunes. The team mixes history with inside tips such as where to get the best Sirisiri. The service is great and personal.

Our first stop is Praia do Fome. The small beach bar run by Flavio has been around for 13+ years and is good for a little snack or a beer.

We continue to Jabaquara, one of the prettiest beaches on the island. Here, you can have lunch and Gin & Tonics so good that they are worth going back for alone at Espacio Taganga (more about that under restaurants below).

Note: Maremar’s Scuna boat (the pirate-looking boat) has a capacity for about 120 people. They have other tours as well, which you can learn more about on their website. If you’re looking for a more intimate experience, it’s possible to rent smaller boats on Ilhabela.

Disconnect in a different world at
Bonete, voted one of Brazil’s top 10 beaches

I think Bonete is the most beautiful beach on Ilhabela. Many locals agree and, according to Guardian, it’s among the top 10 in Brazil. It’s best described as a natural paradise.

It’s a great place to disconnect and has a vibe totally different than the rest of the island. A local community of about 300 live here. The majority are fishermen or work within tourism. Electricity is quite recent and usually still turned off at night, which makes the starry sky amazing.

While it’s possible to come here for one day only, I recommend at least a weekend, and ideally 5 days if you really want to unwind and explore the area. Since it’s not as straight-forward to get to Bonete, it’s usually less crowded than other parts of the island.

How to get to Bonete

While I was lying down in one of the natural pools with a river pouring over me, I decided that I definitely will be back one day. 

To get to Bonete, you need to take a boat or do a 3,5-4-hour hike through the jungle. We hiked here and took the boat back, which is the way to go if it’s your first time. The hike has some beautiful stops. Like Cachueria do Laje, which has this natural waterfall slide that makes you feel like a kid again. You will also get a gorgeous view of Bonete just before arriving.

Apart from that, it’s far from the most scenic hike I’ve done, since you’re surrounded by large trees most of the time. It’s definitely worth doing once for the view, and then only repeat it if you’re into walking. Or big trees…

The initial parts require you to go uphill for a while. If you get tired, just remember that a local from Bonete completed the hike in 1 hr and 15 minutes – without shoes. You will understand how impressive that is once you’re in the middle of one of those uphills.

Where to stay in Bonete

We stayed at Hostel Vila Bonete. Personal service, so comfortable beds, and right by the beach. Pousada Canto Bravo also has a good reputation, but I haven’t stayed there yet.

 

Spend at least one day at Castelhanos (if you don’t, you haven’t really been to Ilhabela)

While Castelhanos is the star of every tour agency and gets crowded in high season with jeeps full of tourists, it’s still worth your time. The main beach is one of the prettiest on the island and so iconic that some would say that you haven’t been to Ilhabela if you haven’t been here.

There are 3 main stops on the way with views and waterfalls.

I’m spending the day with my guide Moseis, who has been working as a guide for 20+ years. As the only Zebra on Ilhabela, and among the first 5 agencies, he started his business with his brother Davey 20+ years ago.

Moseis has been to Castelhanos more than 2500 times ever since. Let’s just say that he knows his way around. He’s a unique option if you’re looking for an authentic experience.

Where to eat at Castelhanos

The majority of the tourists that visit Castelhanos stop at one of the restaurants in the middle of the beach, like Quiosque do Alemão. My personal favorite is the more recent addition, Sombrero. Run by the local William, it’s small and cozy, and the perfect place to have fresh seafood and caipirinhas that will make you want to stay. You can literally sit in the ocean, making you wish for nothing else but more.

Spend the night at Castelhanos

If you feel like staying, the good news is that you can. There are 2 pousadas right by the beach.

Spending the night will also give you time to explore the area and pass by Cachoeira do Gato (a big waterfall), and Praia Vermelha (another pretty beach). And Castelhanos is a true paradise when you wake up without the groups.

I’ll definitely spend at least 2 nights here next time.

Visit Castelhanos without guide

You can drive to Castelhanos by yourself. You just need a 4-wheel drive and it’s a very bumpy road. The number of cars that can enter per day is limited to a maximum of 65 jeeps, 42 private cars, and 60 motorcycles. You have to enter between 7h às 14h but can leave later.

The value-add with a guide is that they will share history and inside info on the way.

Go stand-up paddleboarding around Ilha das Cabras

 

 Can’t come up with a more relaxing way to explore the island…

 

Ilha das Cabras (The Goat Island) is one of the many small islands surrounding Ilhabela, and the most popular area for diving and snorkeling. It’s also one of the best places for stand-up paddleboard, which has become a thing here.

I spend the morning with Divan from DK SUP, who was among the first that started to run SUP experiences on Ilhabela. We pass by turtles and all kinds of fish, while he teaches me how to manage the board as a pro. It feels like we’re cruising around in paradise. We stop to snorkel and explore Finding Nemo look-alikes on the way.

DK Sup can also take you to other more secluded places around Ilhabela and always customize the experience depending on your preferences and level.

Apart from SUP and snorkeling, you can do other water sports on Ilhabela. Like surfing (kite and traditional surfing), kayak, diving, etc.

Check wild whalesand dolphins off your bucket list

From monkeys, to gato do mato (I didn’t know what it was before either), dolphins, lofts of turtles, and in season, even whales (June-September), Ilhabela has quite some wildlife.

If you always dreamt about going on a boat trip with dolphins or something bigger jumping next to you, this could be your chance. Some agencies organize boat trips. You can also be lucky and see them on the normal transfer boat to Ilhabela.

Visit new waterfalls everyday

Even if not all of them are accessible, Ilhabela has some 360 waterfalls. Waterfall showers is a normal routine on the island and will end up on your list of favorite things.

Here are a few of the ones that you shouldn’t miss.

Paqueta

Most of the locals say that this is their favorite, and I agree. Just look at this.

With 3 main stops, each one better than the previous. At the top, you can float around like a little kid with an ocean view. The sunset from here is magical. We were lucky and had it to ourselves one of the times when I visited, but it’s usually the must-visit for both tourists and locals.

Veloso

After a 30-40 min walk from the main road in Veloso, you get to Waterfall Veloso.  It’s a great option when you feel like moving a bit without pushing it too far.

Cachoeira da Laje

A 30-40 min walk from the start off point of the hike to Bonete. If you’re planning on visiting Bonete described above (you should), this is a natural stop on the way. Gorgeous, with an ice-cold waterfall slide that will wake you up.

On the way, you have the viewing point Buraco do Cação (one of my favorite places on Ilhabela) which is very much worth a stop, too.

Água Branca

The Trilha da Água Branca presents several different waterfalls. Some with natural pools perfect for jumping in to. It’s usually not the first waterfall tourists come to, and less crowded than for example Paqueta. The waterfall shower here is great.

Explore secluded or known spots the local way with your own guide

Several guides offer customized walking tours around Ilhabela. I spend a day with Sandro, agua-San, who is all about taking you to secluded places or known places in unique ways with his agency Acquas & Trilhas. He has been living on Ilhabela for 10+ years and puts together customized experiences that let you connect with the natural beauty as a local.

We start with snorkeling by Praia do Sergio next to Porthino to see turtles. Followed by a picnic lunch by the pier at one of the main beaches. The afternoon is spent at Paqueta, followed by the natural pools around sunset. An amazing day which makes it easy to fall in love with the island.

Sandro also runs a hostel called Aquahouse with a complete concept to let you enter the world of water.

Hike Baipi and treat
yourself to surreal views

 

 

 It’s possible to have places like this to yourself.

The top of Baipi is one of the best viewing points on Ilhabela. The hike is well-marked and takes between 1,5-2,5 hr up and 45 min-1,5hr down, depending on your shape. You can also choose to go up with a guide. It makes a great workout, several locals go running or biking to the top regularly.

There is a viewing point on the way which is great for watching the sunset, or if you just want a good view with less effort. The top is definitely worth it though, and you’ll survive without problems as long as you’re used to working out once in a while. Remember to bring enough wine. 🙂

And talking about sunsets…

Spoil yourself with gorgeous sunsets

 

I never get tired of sunsets and Ilhabela is definitely one of my favorite places for it. On a beautiful day, it’s so stunning that you will feel like stopping time.

And you have lots of great spots to choose from.

During the summer months, you’re better off on the south side of the island, at Praia Julião or Praia Grande. During autumn and the winter (May onwards),  you get better views of the sunset further north. The viewing point of Baipi or beaches like Praia do Pinto.

… and picture-perfect beaches (like these)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Whether you feel like unwinding or having a beer with a vibe, there’s a beach on Ilhabela for you. Officially, there are 41 to choose from.

 

Apart from Castelhanos and Bonete mentioned above, are here a few others that are easier to access.

Beaches in the south

Praia do Julião

Praia do Julião is beautiful and one of the more secluded beaches on Ilhabela. The beach bar is a great option if you feel like a drink and something. While it fills up during weekends and holidays, it’s magical if you come here once the crowds are gone. It’s connected with Praia Grande with a little trail, so visiting the 2 on the same day is a good plan.

Praia Oscar

A smaller beach perfect for spending a few hours. It’s usually less crowded.

Praia Feticera

A smaller beach perfect for spending a few hours. It’s usually less crowded.

Praia Cural

One of the most happening beaches. With kiosks and events, this is a great place for groups and anyone who’s looking for that typical beach-weekend ambiance.

Praia Grande

A pretty option with restaurants and bars lined up. Go out on the pier for a different view and make sure to stop by the little Acai shop next to the sports court – it’s one of the best on the island.

Beaches in the north

Praia da Armação

A convenient stop in the north. I think the other beaches are prettier but this is not a bad option if you’re in the area.

Praia Pinto

I came here one of my last days on the island and loved it. Often overlooked, but so pretty.

Praia Jabaquara

A bit more distant, but so worth the trip. Many agencies stop here during their boat trips tours, so it can get crowded during those hours. When it’s not, it’s a real paradise. You can also drive here.

Where to eat on Ilhabela: Must-try restaurants

The restaurants of Tonhão

Tonhão is the kind of person who everyone knows. As one of the most well-established chefs not only on Ilhabela but in Brazil, most people who’ve worked closely with him describe him as one of their biggest inspirations.

Born and raised in Bahia, opportunities took him to Europe during the early 2000s where he spent some 12 years working with gastronomy in France, before returning to Brazil.

These days Tonhão has 3 restaurants on Ilhabela (learn more about them below), and helps many more to innovate in a coaching role. He has helped aspiring chefs with potential but little professional experience transform into confident masters. His international experience is well-reflected in his gastronomy projects, resulting in food so good that you will wish for nothing else but more.

Espaco Tangara

Situated at Praia Jabaquara, one of the prettier beaches on the island, Tangaras location is just one of the reasons you’ll like it here. The drinks, such as the peach and mandarin Gin & Tonics are another.

The menu is designed by chef Tonhão, who regularly works together with the team to ensure that the concept always is up-to-date. I have the ceviche for starters, followed by fish with shrimp sauce. It’s so good that if I didn’t have a boat to catch back, I’d just stay.

Fabricio, who used to live in São Paulo. but changed city life for a more tropical lifestyle on Ilhabela, got the opportunity to manage Tangara in 2017.  He has since then turned the restaurant around, and together with his team established it as one of the must-eats on Ilhabela.

Atelier do Tonhão

Atelier do Tonhão launched as a venue for chef Tonhão to really let the creativity flow. Resulting in affordable dishes under a unique concept, which many customers describe as the best they’ve ever had.

The menu is an exciting fusion of contemporary Mediterranean cuisine and traditional caiçara. From shrimp risotto and different kinds of pasta, to feijoada on Saturdays.

I have the shrimp pasta, “The Recommendation of Today.” It’s full of flavor and makes you understand why shrimp dishes are one of the things Tonhão is famous for.

The wine selection is quite good in comparison with many other options on Ilhabela and the service makes you feel at home.

Île Bistrot

The latest addition to Chef Tonhão’s portfolio of restaurants, Île Bistrot, ends up becoming my favorite restaurant on Ilhabela in terms of food quality.

Located in the premium resort Casa di Sirena right by Praia Veloso, the menu mixes international gastronomy with caiçara influences.

Come here for good service, fine gastronomy, and creative drinks presented with elegance.

The shrimps for starters are best described as perfect.  I follow up with a chocolate dessert (pictured above), which is so good that I could imagine traveling to Ilhabela just to eat here again.

When: Open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner for both hotel guests and the public.

Nova Iorqui

When Tuca and his wife bought the local where Nova Iorqui is located back in the days, there was no road here. It all started as a little boteco (a bar) and if you would have asked the couple back then, they would never imagine how it would transform.

Served as a giant portion with tomato, rice, and shellfish, Lambi Lambi fills you up.

One day a couple that was having drinks in the bar asked if they could prepare a fish. They did, and rumors spread. The day after, 6 couples came, followed by more over the next days, and so the restaurant business was born.  All managed from their private kitchen before expanding to what Nova Iorqui is today.

Don’t miss the chocolate dessert, with 3 layers of chocolate it’s pure happiness.

20+ years later, Nova Iorqui has turned into an icon on Ilhabela known for the view, especially around sunset. And the fact that you easily can spend the day floating around by the bar downstairs.

The caipirinhas with tangerine leaves at Nova Iorqui are some of the best I’ve ever had.

The bar downstairs is your place for a snack (porções), like pastels, and dreamy sunsets.

The restaurant upstairs has a more elaborated, never-ending menu. Lambi Lambi, the plate that made them famous in the first place is still the main attraction.  The couple also rents out chalets, which you can find more info about on their website.

Cheiro Verde

Usually crowded with a line outside, Cheiro Verde is your go-to place when you feel like simple and affordable comida casera. Situated right in the Vila, you’ll easily recognize its colorful turquoise facade.

The owners run a total of 5 restaurants on Ilhabela, all with different concepts and good reputations; Cheiro Pimenta, Bom Apetite, Manjericao, and Manapani. Cheiro Verde is the first and has under its 20+ years on the island built up a big crowd of loyal, local customers.

The lunch is served as a typical lunch menu with a salad for starters, a main, and your choice of dessert. There is also an A La Carte menu with options such as Fish Moqueca. I’ve the fish of the day accompanied with fresh passion fruit juice, followed by a torta Holambra for dessert. The service is quick from the moment you walk in. When you’re looking for something simple, quick, and tasty, you won’t go wrong here.

Gato Negro

Managed by chef Elaine and her team of girls in the kitchen, Gato Negro (The Black Cat) serves food all day. Named after the owner’s passion for cats (she used to have 36…), several plates on the menu have names inspired by the cats. Don’t worry if you have a phobia or something though, you won’t really see them around.

Elaine used to work at the Deck followed by Marakuthai, one of the most famous restaurants on the island, for 8 years. She then got the opportunity to take over the steering wheel at Gato Negro, which now has a big focus on events such as weddings.

The Moqueca do peixe (fish moqueca) is delicious, and doesn’t leave you feeling heavy even if you finish it all. Follow up with a tapioca flocada, with melted chocolate, and a few caipirinhas. Caipirinha with tangerine leaves, the specialty of the island, and mango, are good picks. People do also come here for the feijoada.

The ambiance is cozy and relaxed, with music ranging from reggae to commercial hits. If you just feel like staying and eating here all day, Gato Negro also offers apartments.

Emporio Famiglia Millei

With a unique concept based on high-quality food made with the best ingredients, Manuela and Ricardo have created their dream oasis with their family-run Emporio Famiglia Millei.

It’s like a mix of a charming gourmet boutique and a small trattoria, different from all the other options on the island. With white chairs, red table cloths, and space only for a few customers at a time, it reminds you of being in Italy.

Manuela has taken several courses in São Paulo. on how to make the perfect pasta, which has resulted in a range of exciting dishes with unique flavors. Everything on the menu is made right here using natural ingredients.

Don’t expect waiters or an official menu. It’s more like visiting a good friend. Come here, take a seat, and tell them that you’re hungry. The family then takes care of the rest. Sometimes their daughter who studies music even comes by to play her guitar.

I start with the bread of the day made with garlic and parmesan, accompanied by a creamy basil paste and a glass of red from Alentejo. Ricardo bakes different kinds of bread every day and it’s so good that it’s hard not to eat too much before the food comes.

I continue with 3 different types of Sorrentino; walnuts and brie cheese, Anchovy, and Lamb. It’s tricky to pick a favorite because all of them are delicious, with just the right texture. I end with a mousse made of coco and  leite condensado (condensed milk) and coffee from Brazil’s coffee capital Minas Gerais.

When: Come here for lunch, dinner, or to purchase imported products that can be hard to find on the island, such as fine wine from Italy and Portugal.

Alecrim

Several locals tell me that I must try Alecrim. Run by Sandro, it’s known for quality, big portions, to a good price. The restaurant, which just opened in 2019, has already gained its loyal regulars.

The venue is charmingly decorated with details made of wood, similar to a boat, which I soon find out is the idea. The guests are a mix, ranging from couples to families and groups of friends. The paintings on the walls are made by local artists and if you feel like taking one of them home – good news, they are for sale.

On the menu, you find everything from meat and pasta to risotto and seafood. I start with a Piña Colada decorated with chocolate. Followed by the fish filé with shrimp sauce, one of the specialties of the house.  It comes out as a big portion with fresh veggies. Simple, tasty, and well made.

The pudim de leite (a Brazilian style flan) for dessert is served in a heart-shaped form. It shows, like the rest of my experience, that every detail has been taken into consideration.

Apart from delicious homemade food and great service, the location is another reason to visit Alecrim. Situated right by the main plaza in the Vila (the center) it’s a great start off point before checking out the bars.

Other restaurants to try next time

Here are a few other restaurants that have a great reputation but that I didn’t get the chance to try due to the restrictions for Covid-19 (everything was closed for 4 months (!) on Ilhabela).

• Restaurante do Cura
• Ben’s Bar & Comidaria
• Almirante Bar & Restaurante
• BRASA Quintal Do Churrasco
• Manjericao
• Famiglia Manzoli

Where to go for a drink or a little dance

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sereia Beach Bar is a great stop for sunsets, drinks, Heinken drafts and tasty bar snacks.

 

While I wouldn’t say that the nightlife is the reason to come to Ilhabela (there are better places for that) you definitely have some good options while you’re here.

• Sereia Beach Ilhabela: Good vibes, Heineken drafts, drinks, close by the Vila (the historic center). The manager Dalton is used to organizing big parties around the São Paulo area, and also run other restaurants and bars in the metropolis São José dos Campos, so expect quality. In season and sometimes during weekends, they organize bigger events with live music – ranging from samba and traditional Brazilian music to jazz.On the menu, you find a mix of delicious traditional portions with seafood to German specialties and bar snacks. Don’t miss the different dumplings and croquettes, they are amazing.
• Dona Bica Beer Station: Come here to sit outside and try craft beer. Sometimes during weekends they also light up the BBQ.
• Barraca da samba: Pretty happening with live music every weekend (at least during summer).
• Espacio 14: They do forro events sometimes on Thursdays.
• Estaleiro Bar: Usually forro with live music on Wednesdays. They do also have other events from Thursday onwards. Make sure to stop for a pastel at Pastel & Cia on the way home, they are delicious.
• Okeanos: People go here from Thursdays onwards. On Thursday nights there is usually live music.
• Bar São Paulo: Often live music and a good stop if you feel like sitting down while having a drink.
• Beach bar: During weekends different groups usually play here and it goes on until 5ish.
• Sea Club: Everyone says that this is the best party on the island, and if an event is on it attracts people from the surrounding cities. Since I was here during the quarantine due to Covid 19, the events got canceled. I’m definitely checking it out next time.
• Forro at Coral: On Sundays there are usually Forro events at Praia Coral, at least during the high season.
• Lale’s Coco Shop at Mirante do Piúva (a viewing point with a Ilhabela-sign): Most people on the island know Lale since she, apart from running this charming coconut stop, also organizes events and different projects. Stop for at least a coco and take a picture at the viewing point. Sometimes people gather here to sing and dance (often less official events).

To sum it all up, there is a risk that you end up staying

Many people who live on Ilhabela came here as visitors back in the days and ended up staying. So be prepared…

When you ask someone from Ilhabela what they like most about their home, the majority bring up life quality. Factors that come up, again and again, are the tranquility, the fact that it’s secure, nature, and the weather.

If you’re a tropical island-lover or “small-town”-kind of person, I can’t come up with many other places that offer the same life quality as Ilhabela.

Other useful information

How to get to Ilhabela

To get to Ilhabela, you have to go to São Sebastião first (with car or bus), and from there take a ferry for 15 minutes.

Between 06:00-00:00, the ferry runs about every 30 min, and between 00:00-06:00, once every hour. This can change during high season.

If you feel like living it up a little, you can take a helicopter from São Paulo.

Getting around Ilhabela

Biking around Ilhabela is a great way to explore the area, at least for a couple of days. If you aren’t up for biking several miles, or if you’re short on time, you should rent a car or a moto to really discover the island.

Don’t count on services like Uber. I saw one, literally, on the Uber map, even if this of course could change in the future.

Normal taxis exist, but you usually have to book them in advance and they can take a while. You won’t have to take many rides for it to add up to the same cost as renting a car.

There is a little problem called borrachudos

The most common complaint about Ilhabela from visitors is the borrachudos. It’s a small black fly that bites you, and if you don’t wear protection you will likely end up with marks all over your body. It can be really intense. Just buy protection, always bring it, and you will be fine. They sell repelente in the supermarket and pharmacies etc.

Ilhabela’s history of mystery

Ilhabela hasn’t always been just a tropical paradise. A lot of things happened here in the past and there are several local spooky stories connected to slavery and more about different places such as Castelhanos, Praia Feiticeira and da Caveira.

Many ships have also sunk here and apparently there are still at least 28+ big ships spread around the seabed. Ask your new local friends once you’re here to learn more.

Places to visit close by Ilhabela

If you would like to mix up the scene a bit, you won’t have to travel far. Ilhabela is surrounded by places with a different vibe.

• São Sebastião: Gorgeous wide beaches, better surfing. Maresias (pictured above)  is worth coming here for alone.
• Ubatuba: Wild and pretty, perfect for those who are into nature.
• Campos do Jordão: Like a colder mini-Europe. I did not make it here this time but will next time.
• São José dos Campos: Often described as “a mini São Paulo, but nicer”.
• São Paulo: For some 24/7 city life and amazing food.

 

 

Ready to visit Ihlabela?

Brazil is one of my favorite places in the world and I keep on returning. I’ve many local friends and also speak portuguese. Feel free to ask questions via the comments section below. 

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