Mompiche – A little oasis along the Esmeraldas Coast in Ecuador (This is what you need to know)

Content Overview

⦁ Why visit Mompiche
⦁ Where to stay
⦁ Where to eat
⦁ What to do
⦁ How to get to Mompiche
⦁ When is the best time to visit Mompiche?

Why visit Mompiche

To disconnect from it all

As soon as I arrive in Mompiche, it feels as if everything slows down. I walk down the only main road to the small town centre. Sand streets. Locals are chitchatting at small eateries. Some people walk around without shoes. No one is in a rush. Everyone knows each other and it’s super safe, no matter of the hour. 

Around 2000 people live here all year-round. While rumors say it will become the new Montañita (a busy backpacker hub in Ecuador), for now, it’s feels like a little paradise. 

Whether you want to focus on work projects or disconnect from everything to just be, the laid-back atmosphere with few distractions is perfect for relaxation and exploration. Wake up to birds singing. Go for beach runs. Enjoy fresh juices, delicious seafood, and lots of stars. Recharge. Here a day spent not doing much makes perfect sense.  

The combination of pretty beaches, jungle and exotic wildlife 

While Mompiche itself is a coastal town, it’s situated on the western edge of the jungle region, so you can explore both the beach and the jungle while you’re here. 

You’ve pretty beaches right in the town as well as in the neighbor areas. The nearby Mache-Chindul Ecological Reserve and the surrundings are home to lots of exotic animals like howler monkeys, toucans, and even whales (in the right season).

To surf

Surfing enthusiasts flock to Mompiche for the combination of relaxation and good waves. Whether you’re a beginner or an experienced surfer, there are surf schools and rental shops that cater to all levels.

Where to stay

Mompiche offers a range of accommodation options. From cozy beachfront bungalows to eco-friendly resorts in the heart of the jungle.

Mudhouse, Mompiche

I stay at Mudhouse. This eco-friendly hostel is constructed entirely out of locally sourced materials and offers a range of accommodation options, from private cabins to shared dormitories. There is a bar, relaxing areas where people hang out (and some literally are napping in the afternoon), and a mangrove forest right next to it. 

Originally started a decade ago by owners from the US and Colombia, Mudhouse has maintained it’s position as one of the top places to stay in Mompiche for a reason. Today it’s run by Nout and his wife from Holland who decided to transform their life in 2022 and move to Ecuador to realize their dream of running an amazing hostel.

The couple has always been adventurous. During one of their longer around-the-world trips the idea of running a hostel was born. “We saw that there were so many amazing places, and we’ve always thought about a hostel as much more than a place to stay.” The idea stayed with them, and they started to look for options.

When the opportunity with Mudhouse came up, it was love at first sight. They left Holland to come over and start their new life with their adorable sons of 1,5 and 2,5 years old.

The goal with Mudhose is for you to have a home far away from home. They organize different events almost every night for people to connect. From live music with local talent to beach cleanings in collaboration with the local community, and bigger Christmas dinners. Some people have even said they enjoyed the Christmas celebration so much they prefered to come back for it rather than celebrating at home. 

The team also consist of a local bartender (who apart from making delicious drinks organizes guided tours in the jungle, multi-talent taken to another level), a cleaning lady and volunteers. People who stay here range from families to backpackers and digital nomads. The team can help you organize tours and experiences during your stay.

The tranquil, social vibe make it a great choice if you want to wake up to birds singing, connect with nature, people from everywhere, and feel at home. In case you don’t feel like leaving, Mudhouse also offers special discounts for longer stays. 

Where to eat in Mompiche

From fresh seafood caught that morning to traditional Ecuadorian dishes and international favorites, for being such a small town you have surprisingly good food in Mompiche. 

La Chocolata

In the heart of Mompiche lies La Chocolata, born from chance and passion. What started as a month-long escape for Roman, an Argentine lawyer from Buenos Aires, transformed into a restaurant that has been making people happy for about a decade.

His met his now girlfriend, an antropolog, during his first trip to Mompiche. She was  traveling with a friend and also fell in love with the peaceful vibe. With the original plan to stay a month or so, the couple started selling bread as a way to earn some extra money. While the plan never was to open a resturant, over time, the concept (and menu) grew as people loved their products and started to ask for more. 

La Chocolata’s charm lies in its spontaneity. No grand plan, just a love for food and community. With only 6-7 tables, you get personal attention and a taste of Argentina and beyond. Choose from traditional dishes like milanesa (it’s delicious) or try their pasta. They have a cozy outdoor terrace, a casual homely vibe, tasty desserts, and their own craftbeer. A great place for breakfast, lunch or dinner when in Mompiche.  

Chivos Pizza

Locals kept on recommending this charming no-frills spot run by Jefferson and Ronald. During my visit, a town-wide power outage turned my dinner into candlelit with waves crashing in the background.

I try one of the specialties of the house, the “Mompichera 2.” The texture is great (so is the service) and the toppings full of flavor. If you’re in the mood for pizza this is your place. 

In case you feel like more once you’ve left Mompiche, they recently opened a second location in Manabi on the other side of the coast in Ecuador.

Comedor Johanna

Located right by Mompiche beach, I stop for breakfast with a sea view. I try their Tigrillo, one of the typical Ecuadorian breakfast dishes. It’s made from boiled green plantains,  transformed into a mash, seasoned with butter, salt, and sometimes a touch of dairy. It’s ok, but not extraordinary (I’ve had some amazing ones in other places in Ecuador so my standards are high).

I’d come back here next time to try something else for lunch or dinner though, as several locals told me the food is great here. 

Restaurant Vista al Mar

A casual spot great for a simple lunch or dinner. During lunch time, they have traditional specials (soup and fish/meat with sides) and a juice. At night, you can choose from a range of fresh seafood and other typical dishes. I try their fish, simple and tasty. 

It’s located right next to the resturant above. Come here for simple but well-made food, sea views, and friendly service. 

The local bakery D’Tipan

This simple little bakery has great coffee and some delicious pastries. I stop by just as these apple fillied pastels come out from the oven. So good I had to come by again the next day. Many traditional resturants serve instant coffee. This is a good place when you want to go local, but still have your dose of real coffee with a little something. 

Places locals recommended that I didn’t have time to try this time

Unfortunately I’m only in Mompiche for short stop this time, so there are many places I didnt have the chance to try, like:

• Madre Selva
• La Catona
• Secret Garden
• Monchies Café

What to do in Mompiche

Explore the jungle and surrounding nature

You can take customized tours with local guides to explore the jungle and waterfalls, or guided boat rides through the mangrove forests to explore the wildlife. 

Go surfing

Whether you’re a beginner or an experienced surfer, there are surf schools and rental shops that cater to all levels. La Punta and Playa Negra are two common options.

Enjoy the beaches

Mompiche Beach is the main beach. When tide is low, you can relax and go for a swim here. There are also some beachfront restaurants and bars (some of them mentioned above) where you can have breakfast, lunch or dinner to the sound of the ocean. 

Just a short walk from the main beach, Playa Negra (The Black Beach) with volcanic sands is a quieter and more serene option, perfect when you want more privacy. There are usually local fishermen and sometimes a few local get-togethers here. If you walk towards the end of it, it’s often pretty empty (at least outside of the peak season).

Explore the nearby Isla Portete

If you feel like a bit of variation, this picturesque island is accessible by boat and offers a tranquil escape from the mainland. Spend the day snorkeling, sunbathing, or picnicking on its beaches, and let the worries of the world slip away.

Recharge and relax

Rest, sleep in, enjoy a massage, sit down somewhere to watch the world go by, and chitchatting with the locals are other good things to do in Mompiche. People are friendly and seem to be in no hurry.

How to get to Mompiche

The easiest way to get to Mompiche is by flying into Quito, Ecuador’s capital. From here, you can take the bus or drive from Quito directly to Mompiche (or any of the nearby beach villages and move on from there). 

You can also take a domestic flight to Esmeraldas. Car or bus works just fine though and is better for the enviornment! From Esmeraldas, you can hire a taxi, or take a bus to Mompiche. 

When is the best time to visit Mompiche?

Many people visit Mompiche between December – March. This period promises great weather, but it’s also the high season. Many locals visit between July-August, while June and Novemeber usually are more quiet. 

I come here during the week in April and it’s very peaceful. So it depends what you’re looking for. If you prefer a quieter and less crowded experience, April and sometimes even May or September-October can be great. During these times, you can still enjoy relatively good weather while avoiding the peak tourist influx. 

Keep in mind that weather patterns can vary, and it’s a good idea to check local forecasts as well as opening hours for specific activities and accommendation closer to your travel dates to ensure the best possible experience.

Other things that can be good to know

Here are a few other things that can be good to know before coming here.

• Mompiche is a small village with limited infrastructure. While this adds to its charm, it also means that amenities such as ATMs and supermarkets are scarce. It’s advisable to bring enough cash to sustain yourself during your stay
• Mompiche is a popular destination during peak seasons. If you prefer a quieter and less crowded experience, consider visiting during the shoulder months of April/May or October.
• While internet worked well at Mudhouse where I stayed, central power outages are not uncommon. Sometimes they can last a few minutes, sometimes a day or more. So if you’re dependent on having great internet all the time, you should look into back up options. I managed to get work done here but had planned in advance to ensure that I’d be ok even in case of power outage (which happened once during my stay).

Overall, Mompiche is a great choice when you feel like slowing down, connecting with yourself and nature, be present and remember how beautiful the basic things in life are.

Have you been to Mompiche yet? If not, when are you coming over?