The gastronomic capital where
eating all day long makes perfect sense
From the exclusive events of the Sociedades Gastronomicos and gastronomy festivals, to more casual meetups. In San Sebastián, chitchatting over fine food and txakoli wine is a part of the daily routine.
Apart from being one of the places with most Michelin starred restaurants per square meter in the world, San Sebastián is full of charming neighborhood bars. Exploring authentic pintxos in San Sebastián, one neighborhood at a time, is a perfect way to spend a few days.
The Old Town: Touristy but pretty,
and frequently visited by locals
The old town is the most touristy part of San Sebastián, but still one of the areas where you find many of the best pintxo bars. Some locals describe it as the most beautiful part of the city, while others say it has become like a Disneyland, over-priced, with lower quality due to mass tourism.
As long as you come here with the expectations that it will be crowded, there are enough good places, views, and pretty architecture to make you happy.
Be aware that the most authentic pintxos in San Sebastián usually are specials that you order from the kitchen, and not displaced on the bar disk.
Gandarias: Big and well-established
Ganadarias is a well-established brand that has been around for years. It’s a favorite among the locals and a great place to take in the ambiance, especially so at the bigger one of their two venues. It’s always crowded and happening.
What to order: I get recommended the Solmillo (sirloin) and the bacalao. While the solmillo is good, the bacalao is fantastic.
La Espiga: Local vibe perfect for a quick stop
A charming local hang-out spot, extra affordable in comparison with most places in the old town. It’s simple and great for a quick stop to try authentic pintxos in San Sebastián. Have a seat in the bar and chitchat with the people by your side or just observe the ambiance.
What to order: The cold pintxo with anchovies and pimienta (peppers) is so good.
Fuego Negro: Chic and different from everythinge else
A stylish addition to the old town with modern pintxos and new flavors. Hang out by the bar or get a table to experiment with their tasting many. Fuego Negro is a favorite among tourists and locals for the chic ambiance and the food, different from all the other options in San Sebastián.
What to order: The burger (served as a pintxo) is a reason to come here. Their Japanese specialty is another.
Tun Tun: An endless amount of options
A modern venue with an impressive variation. The bar is big and filled with different pintxos, delicately presented. The owner also runs two more bars, Bar Julio and Bar Toros, which I didn’t have time to try this time around.
What to order: The chef got to surprise me with a special Gambas (prawns) pintxo – so tasty.
Taberna Dakara Bi: One of the best sirloin pintxtos in town
With only a few seats in the bar, you rather pass by than spend hours at Taberna Dakara Bi. And you should pass by. I have the solomillo foie (sirloin foie) and it’s one of the best during my time in San Sebastián. The meat is juicy, seasoned with just the right mix of sweet and salty. The owners are a couple from San Sebastiánand Argentina, and they know their meat.
What to order: The solomillo foie (sirloin foie). Mmm.
La Cuchara San Telmo: You come here for the ambience
La Cuchara San Telmo has been around since 1999 and worth visiting for its casual ambiance. It’s super crowded, which is a part of the charm. Simple, unique, with friendly and quick service. It’s that kind of place which you have to visit while you’re in San Sebastián – if not, you haven’t really been here.
What to order: The foie gras is the star of the house.
La Cepa: One of the most traditional places
A traditional place, where ham hangs down from the roof. La Cepa has been around since the 40s, and the current family who owns it has been running it for 20+ years.
What to order: The Jamon comes from a little village outside of Andalucia and is so tasty.
Goiz Argi: Award-winning and usually crowded
A small place that has been around for years. Goiz Argi has earned its fame for its authentic pintxos in San Sebastián. I try two of the award winners; the prawn skewer and the Jose Mari. While it usually gets crowded, it is quiet the night I pass by. I don’t find the ambience incredibly special, and the prawn is quite average. Let’s hope that was a one-night-thing…
What to order: The Jose Mari, simple and delicious.
Txalupa: Elegant, unique design, run by masterchefs
A elegant place, run by the growing empire of bars and restaurants that also owns Atari and Sirimiri. You can tell by the details that it is managed by someone who knows their gastronomy and hospitality. The txalupa, or small whaling boat, is the inspiration for the design of this cozy Gastroteka. It’s a good place for a quick something as well as a proper dinner.
What to order: The Solmillo (sirloin) won’t disappoint. The menu presents an exciting mix of Spanish traditions with a twist.
La viña: A cheesecake that you will be thinking about sometimes
La viña sells about 50 cheesecakes per day. Their wall filled with cheesecakes makes it worth coming here alone. They only got one type on the menu. Why would you need more when it’s so creamy that you need to finish it even if you’re so full that you can’t take any more?
What to order: You guessed it…
Extra tips:
Gelateria Boulevard: While this is an ice cream bar, the ice cream was so creamy and incredible that it’s worth mentioning. What better way to finish your pintxo tour?
Antigua: The oldest part of San
Sebastián (and probably your favorite)
I stayed in Antigua, the oldest part of Donostia-San Sebastian, and loved it. It’s like a little village of its own with a very local vibe. It’s the place for a different experience and lots of authentic pintxos in San Sebastián. Some residents call themselves antiguotarras rather than donostiarras. People know each other, and most bars have loyal customers coming by daily.
Alia: A good stop for a caña and a lil’ something
This no-frills family-run restaurant has been around for 40 years. It’s simple, and a typical regulars’ place where you pass by to drink a caña with a tortilla de patatas (a Spanish potato omelet).
What to order: The tortilla de patatas is so creamy and even better with a little beer on the side.
Bar Cervecería Pepe: Tasty food (and beer) all day long
Pepe is a brewery that serves food all day. It’s exotic, since most places close between lunch and dinner in San Sebastián. Several locals come here with their newspaper to spend the afternoon catching up on the latest. I have the carrilleras de ternera (beef cheeks), with fries, croquetas, and fried egg. A complete dish, with juicy meat. I also try the carrilleras pintxto, since the waitress tells me it’s even more amazing. She’s right.
What to order: The pintxo carrillera de ternera. Mmmm.
Restaurante Platero: Great value, if you get a table
Most people come to Platero for the daily menu, known for its great value in relation to the price. It’s a simple and charming place with lots of regulars. Several people are told to come back later since there are no tables left. When you try the food you will understand why.
What to order: Pintxos-wise, try the chipirón plancha (squid) with garlic oil or the camarones (prawns). Mmm… Didn’t try the daily menu this time since I eat so much the day I went, but I’ll definitely next time.
TrikuHarri Taberna Jatetxea: Modern and absolutely delicious
Modern and welcoming, Trikuharri has been around for about 7 years. While it might be less than some of the traditional places in San Sebastián, it has established its loyal base with customers. I try the carrillera ternera (veal cheek). It’s so tender and goes perfectly with a glass of txakoli. Everything that comes out while I’m there looks delicious and, according to the people I’m talking with in the bar, Trikuharri is also a great place for dessert.
What to order: Carrillera ternera (veal cheek).
Artikutza: Stays open, with a daily menu and local art
Generous opening hours, and collaborations with the local community are two factors that differentiate Artikutza. The daily menu, which always presents 2 meat- and 1 fish dish, is what attracts most people. You also have several pintxos to choose from. The walls are decorated with paintings from local artists. While I wouldn’t travel across the city just to get here, it’s worth a stop if you’re in the area.
What to order: The daily menu.
Anzara: A tropical vibe where you feel good
Many different locals recommend Anzara, and once here it is easy to understand why. Run by John, it’s the kind of place where you feel good. It quickly fills up during lunch hours, and gets crowded every day. People are mingling to happy, relaxing music, the staff wear tropical shirts. It’s so easy to be wanting to stay just a little bit longer.
What to order: The mejillones (mussels) with mayonnaise are so creamy, and as so often in San Sebastián, extra delicious with a glass of txakoli.
Drinka: One of the best croquetas in San Sebastián
Run by a couple from San Sebastián, Drinka is a popular spot among the people in the neighborhood. I try the croqueta de queso y nuez (cheese and nut croquette) and the buñelo de bacalao (the bacalao bun). Both have made it to the list of the top 99 pintxos in San Sebastián. Well-deserved? Yes. The owners have recently opened a Mexican restaurant close by, which supposedly also is great.
What to order: The cheese and nut croquette, it’s so creamy.
Oliyos: If you only visit one place, make sure it’s this one
This ends up as one of my absolute favorites in San Sebastián. Founded by a local couple, Oliyos has been around for about 70 years. Recently renovated, it’s light and very special. Everyone seems to be a regular. I come here based on recommendations from people who’ve been living in Antigua their whole life. While I love the ambience in the bar, they also have a dining room.
What to order: From the tortilla de patata (Spanish omelette), to the salmon with prawns, and the octopus in its own ink – everything is so good.
Sukalde Kultura: Pretty and tasty lunch
Sukalde Kultura opened about 6 years ago, and has made its name for its delicious lunch. While the restaurant doesn’t look special from the outside, it surprises you. Tastefully decorated, with a great-value lunch, beautifully presented.
What to order: They have different lunch specials, some include pintxos.
Abakando: Seafood to an unbeatable price
Seafood as fresh as it gets at an unbeatable price is the main attraction at Abakando. It’s popular with all right. Oscar, the director, shows me the kitchen and the aquariums where everything is very much alive.
I try two of their most popular pintxos, with a glass of delicious wine. They have rice dishes as pintxos, which is uncommon. Apart from the terrace with live music and the main dining room, they have two dining rooms with big screens perfect for private get-togethers or company presentations. Everything that comes out is elegantly presented, and the service gives you that I’m special-feeling.
What to order: Whatever seafood you order, you will be happy.
Gros: Trendy and real
Across the bridge from the old town, you find the trendy Gros neighborhood. It’s a popular area to live, filled with fine restaurants and popular pintxos bars. Many of the locals I meet here tell me that they prefer the vibe in Gros for authenthic pintxos in San Sebastián, rather than the old town. It’s more real. When it comes to food, you won’t run out of options.
Gure Txoko Taberna: One of block’s most popular places
I come here on a Saturday night and it’s extremely crowded, as you can expect from one of the neighborhood’s most popular spots. I have the squid in black ink, one of the house specialities. The bar is worth experiencing for its happening ambience, but it doesn’t feel like anything more than ok. There is a dining room too, and I’ve heard great things about having dinner here.
What to order: The squid in black ink.
Bodega Donostiarra: People come here for hake
A very popular place among locals and tourists, Donostiarra is always very crowded during peak hours (lunch and dinner). I try the hake pintxo. It’s good, but doesn’t blow me away. It feels a bit overrated in comparison with all the other good places in San Sebastián. I had heard so many things about Donostiarra before coming here, maybe I just expected more.
What to order: The Hake fish cake or Today’s special.
Bergara: More upscale but still casual
I come to Bergara with two local friends who know the owners. Elegant, delicious, and award-winning. Bergara is run by two cousins from San Sebastián and offers many pintxos to choose from. A bit more upscale, but still with a casual vibe. It always fills up and many people describe it as one of their favorites in San Sebastián.
What to order: Mushroom risotto with foie.
Restaurants in San Sebastian to visit next time
A few of the restaurants I didn’t have time to try, that I’ll make sure to check out next time:
- Rojo negro
- La Mejillorera (bigger dishes)
- Sirimiri
- Atari gastroleku
- Paco Bueno
I’ll also set off time to visit the nearby villages like Andatza next time, where the gastronomy supposedly is amazing too.
There is more to offer than
authentic pintxos in San Sebastián
While the food often is the main reason for people to visit San Sebastián, there is much more to offer. Start your day surfing, attend big cultural events, relax on one of the pretty beaches. Go hiking, unwind at one of the viewing points, or explore the charming nearby villages that introduce you to an interesting culture different from the rest of Spain.
“Officially we are a part of Spain, but you will see that things are different here“, as one of the locals explains. We sit next to each other in the bar as she orders her favorite pintxos in Basque (or Euskara), the local language.
The culture in the Basque Country is often described as more reserved in comparison with the south. I’m lucky to get to know several locals and leave with a great impression. Other destinations worth your time, such as Bilbao and La Rioja, are also just a short drive away.
People are excited when talking about their town. And once you’ve been, you will probably be, as well.
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