Albarracín – Spain’s pretty town has more than views to offer

With castles, a surrounding wall that originates from centuries ago, and postcard views, arriving in Albarracin feels a little bit like stepping into a fairytale village.

While the fact that it has been named Spain’s prettiest village more than once is reason alone to come here, there is more to it.

The ambiance makes you feel at home

“It’s the people and the way you feel here that makes it special”, one of the locals tells me. Anyone could invite you home for dinner. It would not be strange, that’s just how it is. I can’t imagine living anywhere else”.

The ambiance in the restaurants and the bars in Albarracin is the same as if you were stepping into your regular local bar, even if you just arrived. People are chit-chatting with everyone, and the staff usually know what everyone is about to order and how they want it.

There are hotels for every taste

I’m staying at Hotel Arabia. It’s the biggest hotel in Albaraccin, and also one of the most important and historic accommodation options in town. With comfortable rooms and apartments, mountain views, and a central location, it’s a great base to explore from. The interior features special details like stone walls, elegant lamp holders, and red fond walls to put you in the right mood. It’s family-run with personal service.

The family recently opened another hotel which is located a little further off. Hotel Albarracin, the most elegant hotel in town, is another well-established option in the city.

The views are like a live postcard

Surrounded by mountains and the Guadalaviar river, Albarracin is so pretty that it’s surreal sometimes.

From the historical center, the Cathedral, and casas antiguas like Casa de la Julianeta, to the charming hillside chapel Ermita de Carmen, and hikes like the Paisaje protegido de los Pinares de Rodeno. The latter is 14 km through a protected area, with highlights along the way such as Acueducto Romano, waterfalls, and lots of history.

The tranquility will make you feel so at peace

Around midnight onwards most things are closed in Albarracin. If no special event is going on, you might be the only one on the street.

It’s easy to sleep like a baby and according to some locals, this is also where you find the most beautiful starry sky in Spain.

There are authentic food options

The following are a few restaurants in Albarracin worth your time.

La Despensa de Tusta

I end up at this cute hideout with only 5 tables, which happens to be one of the oldest restaurants in Albarracin, based on recommendations from locals. Tusta tells me how it all started as a ceramics shop back in the days. When it became tricky to keep that business sustainable, the fact that great gastronomy always is in demand made her start La Despensa.

La Despensa is a simple place full of personality. The walls are decorated with messages from happy guests and photos of family and Albarracin back in the days.

The simple menu is all about locally-produced delicacies. I have a cheese platter for starters, with goat (currado) and cow cheese from Albarracin and the neighboring villages Zaladas and Calanda. I also try the fried cheese accompanied by sweet tomato marmalade. Similar to halloumi, it’s a local specialty that just melts in your mouth.

My main, cordero guisado (lamb stew), is served with small potato cuadritos. Most people here prepare the lamb in the oven. Tusa cooks it for 4 hours, and you can tell by how juicy it is. It’s the best lamb I’ve had in a long time.

Other specialties are pisto con huevo frito, migas con melon, and ciervo a la pimienta. From the moment you walk in, you feel welcome, and when you leave, you will feel like coming back again.

Casino

Casino used to be, you guessed it, a casino, and is a natural meeting point for people from the village. The owner Pablo tells me how the concept from the start in 2001 has been just that. A place to get together, where everyone is welcome, 365 days of the year.

Casino is your place for breakfast, lunch, comida, dinner, or a merienda  (Spanish people usually eat five times a day – my kind of people) with a view after having toured the village. This is without a doubt the restaurant with the best view in Albarracin, and in summer you can enjoy it from the terrace.

While the place is simple,  it has become such an icon that some people would claim that you haven’t really been to Albaraccin if you haven’t had at least a coffee or a glass of Navateros Roble (a wine from the nearby Somontano) here.

Menu-wise, expect things like  Conserva Argonesa (a very typical dish in Spain, especially in the area), La caldereta de Cordero, and migas with uvas. Don’t expect an incredible gastronomy experience, but rather an authentic experience with food.

Restaurante Señorío de Albarracín

The young couple who run Señorío de Albarracín made their way here from Valencia relatively recently. With 12+ years of experience from the restaurant industry in a bigger city, their concept is centered around professionalism and typical ingredients prepared in creative ways.

They run two spaces in the same building. One simple café with burgers and such, and this restaurant – a more elegant option in comparison with other places to eat in Albarracin. Think lamb cooked for 24 hours served with sweet potato, pie made of chicken liver, broccoli salad with dry fruits, Ternasco (ear fried in the oven). Desserts like brie cheese fried in cinnamon and carrot cake. You will love the experience.

Extra tips: Since I visited Albarracin during the Village celebrations, many places were closed. Just next to the tourist office is this little bar called  El Gato, which supposedly has a great ambiance and great beers. I did not get the chance to visit, but will next time around.

Experience events with a local vibe

I’m here for the “Party of the Village”, the biggest happening of the year. With live music, food, and events – it’s a full-on weekend with activities going on until 3 am. It’s a great way to experience the local culture. Just keep in mind that many official places and restaurants are closed during this time. Even some hotels close since the staff want to participate in the celebrations. It’s crowded with people from the surrounding villages. If you can’t make it this weekend – there is apparently a party going on every weekend in one of the villages.

There are other cute villages closeby

You could spend weeks in the area here and go from one village to another, without visiting them all. Here are a few I would love to get to know one day, that you might want to consider when planning your trip:

• Valderrobres (often mentioned as one of Spain’s most beautiful villages)
• Calaceite
• Contravieja
• Iglesuela del Cid

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