The 2023 Cuenca Ecuador Guide (Everything You Need To Know)

Content Overview

⦁ Why visit Cuenca
⦁ Where to stay
⦁ A Food Lover’s Guide to Cuenca
⦁ What to do
⦁ Enjoying the nightlife
⦁ Is Cuenca a good place to live?

Why Visit Cuenca, Ecuador

Photo credit: Juan Ordonez on Unsplash

Cuenca is a popular destination for locals, international travelers, and digital nomads. Let’s take a look at some of the reasons that make it special.

Historic architecture that makes you feel as if you’re traveling in time

Cuenca is known for its well-preserved colonial architecture. The city’s historic center, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is like a live museum with cute cobbled streets, elegant churches, and unique buildings dating back centuries. 

Cultural heritage and a vibrant cultural scene

When you ask people about the local community here, one thing often come up is how cultural they are (and super friendly). Pass by museums, art galleries, and cultural centers.

Several festivals and events celebrating local traditions take place throughout the year. Corpus Christi celebration is one of the most known ones, where the streets are decorated with flower carpets created by local artists. Cuenca is in general famous for its skilled artisans who produce beautiful handicrafts, like ceramics, textiles, and Panama hats. 

Creative top-notch gastronomy

From traditional to modern fusions run by ambitious entrepreneurs, if you’re a foodie it’s easy to be happy here. Some restaurants are so good they are worth coming over for alone. We’ll list some of the top spots further down in this guide.

Natural beauty and outdoor adventures

The surrounding landscapes of Cuenca, with the Andes mountains and its four main rivers, are breathtaking. A short drive from the center you’ll find the Cajas National Park, known for its stunning high-altitude lakes. The area also offers opportunities for hiking, birdwatching, climbing, and other outdoor activities.

Great climate all-year-round

Cuenca enjoys a mild climate year-round due to its location in the Andean highlands. The weather is generally comfortable, not too hot or too cold, and sunny, making it an ideal place to escape the heat of the lowland regions.

Safety

Compared to many other South American cities, Cuenca is considered relatively safe. It’s still as always important to take normal precautions as you would in any foreign city, but Cuenca’s reputation for safety is appealing for both locals and visitors.

Affordable

Ecuador, in general, is known for being a budget-friendly destination, and Cuenca is no exception. You can find reasonably priced accommodations, food, and transportation options.

Where to stay in Cuenca

When it comes to accommodation in Cuenca, there are plenty of options to suit every budget and preference. From luxurious, traditional boutique hotels to charming apartments, you’ll find something that fits your needs.

If you want to immerse yourself in the historic center, choose a hotel in one of the refurbished colonial buildings. For those seeking a quieter more local atmosphere, the neighborhoods outside the center offer more tranquility, while still being easily accessible.

Apartamentos Otorongo: A Home Away From Home in Cuenca

Run by the same local family since 1993, today Apartamentos Otorongo are managed by Javier, his wife Samara, and their kids.

Xavier’s mom began working in a hostería already when she was 17. After gaining experience, she opened the apartments. Javier studied destination management and worked in hospitality in Quito and the Amazonas, learning from leading brands.

Located right next to a river, enjoy tranqulity and live spa music, while being a short walk from Cuenca’s old town. With 15 well-equppied traditional apartments, including two-bedroom, one-bedroom, and a presidential suite, there’s a fit for every guest. You can also work and unwind in the cozy patio.

The apartments attract different guests, ranging from retirees, digital nomads, tourists, and business travelers from Ecuador and abroad. Many who are thinking about moving to Cuenca stay here while getting to know the city, as it’s a great choice for longer stays (the average stay is 5 weeks).

What makes Apartamentos Otorongo unique is its homey feeling and the personalized service. Xavier and Samara have worked as guides for years and have insider knowledge of the life quality in Cuenca and hikes/climbing in the area to help you customize experiences.

I take a customized authentic neighborhood tour with Xavier and another couple that is considering relocating here. I also take a beautiful hike, different from the most common ones, with Samara and a group of local women from Cuenca in Cajas. More details about both experiences under What to do in Cuenca below.

For a cozy and authentic stay in Cuenca, Apartamentos Otorongo is the ideal choice.

Casa Firenza Hotel & Suites: Elegant mix of new and traditional

Opened in November 2022 right by one of the main squares in the old town, this 5-star boutique hotel seamlessly combines the charm of tradition with modern elegance, offering an unforgettable stay. The owner has a mixed background between Ecuador and Italy, and the hotel represents a great blend.

Messages like Come con piacere (eat with pleasure), Ríe spesso (laugh often) and Disfruta mucho (enjoy a lot) are a part of the design. The rooms are spacious and elegant, with every detail taken into consideration. Coffee machine, a great shower, dark curtains, and a big super comfortable bed that will make it tempting to stay a little bit longer.

Their restaurant Trattoria Murano serves delicious Italian food and their rooftop with creative, delicious cocktails feels like one of the best-kept secrets in Cuenca’s old town. More details about both under where to eat and go out in Cuenca below.

Since they have a bar that is open until 1am during weekends, there can be some music in the evenings. I didn’t mind at all, but it can be good to know.

Come here to treat yourself, you won’t be disappointed.

Hotel Boutique La Ronda By Chat Noir: Modern with personal service

This charming modern boutique hotel offers only 9 rooms, including a luxurious suite. Some of the rooms come with balconies, while others have windows facing inside the building.

The location is great, making it easy to explore Cuenca on foot and immerse yourself in the city’s culture and attractions. At Hotel Boutique La Ronda, you’ll be treated like family by the friendly and attentive staff like Maicon and Edeer. They go above and beyond to ensure that guests feel right at home.

They served breakfast during my stay and were just about to open a little restaurant (for both guests and the public), offering a convenient dining option during your stay.

Hotel Vieja Mansion: Connect with Cuenca’s history and art

Once a family house, Hotel Vieja Mansion has retained its charm. Built with 100-year-old Adobe material, you’ll be immediately captivated by its beauty as you step into the lobby. With unique paintings on the walls and a stunning glass ceiling, the vibe here is a great way to connect with Cuenca’s history and art (the building is even UNESCO protected).

Though the rooms are simple, they provide a comfortable and cozy retreat after a day of exploration. Each of its 20 rooms have names inspired by the area.

Guests range from couples to families, friends, and solo travelers.

Convenience is at your doorstep as the hotel enjoys a prime location, with easy access to the city’s main attractions. But what truly sets this place apart is the friendly and personalized service. The team Adriana, Jonny, Estella and her daughter create a warm and inviting atmosphere, making it a great unique option for where to stay in Cuenca.

Hostal Suite Le Fabrique: A charming oasis in the old town

Hostal Suite Le Fabrique is a hidden gem in the heart of Cuenca, offering a personalized and artistic experience that sets it apart. While it’s located in centre, stepping into the courtyards feels like a serene oasis that invites you to unwind.

Each room has its own unique character. With cozy decorations, a seating area outside in the patio, perfect to relax with a book or a glass of wine, and small touches like bathrobes that enhance your comfort. 

The breakfast, carefully curated by owner Franco, changes every day and is a treat in itself. Enjoy the best espresso in town (he’s Italian), with fresh fruits, bread and sides.

This is not your typical hotel, it’s an authentic, unique, and personal retreat in Cuenca.

A Food Lover’s Guide to Cuenca

Cuenca is a paradise for food lovers. The city is known for its gastronomy, with a wide variety of delicious dishes to try. Ranging from family-run traditional eateries to modern venues run by young, creative entrepreneurs. Here are some of the best options.

El Mercado: A must-visit destination when in Cuenca 

El Mercado is more than a restaurant—it’s an experience. Opened in 2014, guided by the passion of Roberto, who used to be a teacher at the culinary school. It redefines dining in a symphony of flavors and culture. “We want people to think about us as a destination”, he says. “When you come to Cuenca, you come here”. 

And that’s how I feel when it’s time to leave.

The ambiance echoes with culture. They have recently created a giant painting of indigenous women on one of the walls, connecting history with the present. Service here is an art, too. The staff not only knows your name, but also understands your preferences, ensuring a dining experience that’s as intimate as it is exceptional. 

The Arbogine starter with smoked ham is creamy and irresistible. The Sashimi Red Tuna is amazing with avocado and an oil-based spicy sauce. The crab with avocado, butter and blueberry combine in ways that’ll you’ll miss when it’s over.

The wine curation takes you around the world. From Argentina’s Malbecs to the finest from Australia, France, Spain, and Italy, with a touch of Ecuador.

The Meat El Mercado is a classic on the menu, and prepared exactly as I like it. The fruits sallad on the dessert menu is interesting and new, with tomato. Even though tomato in dessert won’t become my new go-to, it’s new flavors I haven’t had before.

Come here for lunch, dinner, a chef’s table experience, or join their wine club. Just make sure when you’re in Cuenca, you come here. It’s likely it will become your favorite in town.

El Confesionario: Modern fusions with dreamy views of the cathedral 

After years of traveling and experiencing different cuisines, the peruvian gastronomy entrepreneur Tatiana decided to bring a blend of global tastes to this (then) hidden square in 2018. She had visited Cuenca for holidays for years in search for a new hometown and fallen in love with its charm. Experienced after having managed successful restaurants in Lima, one of world’s leading food capitals, she saw the potential of the location. 

With patience and persistency (it’s not easy to get a venue in the old town), she managed to open the restaurant. We are happy she did – and you’ll be, too.

The menu at El Confesionario consist of favorites from all over the world. Start with a delicious pisco sour and banana chips paired with a homemade spicy Peruvian dip. The Locro de papá cuencano is good, but the camarones al ajillo is on a different level. So delicious you’ll feel licking the plate! The duck confitado, slow-cooked for six hours, is another speciality of the house. Served with blueberry sauce, glazed apples, asparagus, and crispy potatoes. For dessert, the tiramisu has a great texture, one of the better ones I’ve had outside of Italy.

Located on the second floor, you get one of the best close-up views of the cathedral. With relaxing music (they have their own list on Spotify) and hummingbirds, it’s a great place for people watching and to enjoy the Cuenca vibe. Whether you’re in the mood for brunch, lunch, dinner, or just a coffee and some confessions (the name is inspired from the church), El Confesionario is a great idea. 

La Esquina: The best of Argentina, Cuencano Style 

La Esquina is all about bringing people together over amazing food. It opened about 12 years ago, after Fabian, who’s from Buenos Aires, had traveled and worked with gastronomy around Europe as a part of one of the most prestigious gastronomy programs.

A fine, but at the same time casual, and delicious dining experience you won’t want to miss. With the best flavors from Argentina and Europe, adjusted for Cuenca.

I start with a creamy octopus followed by their steak. A must-try, cooked to perfection and served with mushroom sauce. They also have veggie and seafood options served in their famous iron pans/skillets. For dessert, treat yourself to their homemade alfajores or chocolate cake. All companied by quality wine in different price ranges. 

The atmosphere is relaxed, and the staff is super friendly and ready to guide you through their menu. Fabian is also a unique character, walking around with his hat and a lot of stories to tell. It’s popular, so it’s a good idea to make a reservation if you’re here during peak periods. 

Salsa Verde: Travel to the coast while in Cuenca

Salsa Verde is a culinary gem run by Carolina and her boyfriend. Carolina is from Manabi (known for having the best food in Ecuador) on the coast and has always loved the food there, but found it difficult to find authentic options in Cuenca. 

Starting as a humble container venture during the pandemic which the Cuencanos fell in love with, in 2020 they decided to opened a proper, vibrant eatery with a menu that celebrates seafood in all its glory. Many of the recipes are inspired by traditional ones on the coast (they have their insider network including a woman who’s been cooking these for 50+ years), mixed with modern creative fusions.

Each plate has its history, and most of them you won’t find anywhere else in Cuenca. As the name suggests, most dishes are based on verde (a type of banana), very common on the coast. From caldo de bolas to cazuela, encebollados, guatita, banderas, and camarones. If you’re into seafood, this will be your happy place.

I try their corviches and pasame al otro lado, with a fresh blackberry juice. SO good that I don’t want it to end. The venue is charming, colorful with art and a little patio. The kind of place where you’ll feel like staying, perfect when you want to escape to the coast while being in the city.

Warmikuna Cocina Taller: (Re-)connect with Ecuador’s culinary heritage

On a side street in the heart of Cuenca, Warmikuna Cocina Taller is more than just a restaurant. It’s a passionate endeavor by Camila and Tati that has been captivating taste buds since 2013. Their mission is clear: to reconnect us with our ancestral roots, preserving the rich heritage that often slips away in our fast-paced world. 

The menu at Warmikuna Cocina Taller is a testament to their commitment. It’s a culinary map that takes you on a delightful exploration of Ecuador’s diverse regions. Each dish is carefully crafted to honor the flavors, traditions, and stories that define our origin. 

And speaking of flavors, you’re in for a treat. From the creamy locro de papa, with delicious cheese, to the fluffy bread. I’m here around Easter and try the Fanesca with a traditional drink made of herbs.

But it’s not just the food that steals the show; it’s the entire experience. The warmth and attentiveness of the staff create an inviting atmosphere that feels like coming home. And as you enjoy each bite, you’ll feel the connection to Ecuador’s culinary heritage growing stronger.

You can also do cooking classes here. What better way to connect with the culture?

Zaza 360 Bar Lounge: Views and unique cocktails connected to Cuenca’s culture

Zaza 360 Bar Lounge seamlessly blends tradition and contemporary flair.

Started by a creative investor from a neighbor town with experience running several businesses, it’s one of the first rooftops in Cuenca.

The historic building used to be a hotel back in 1930, and was then used for other businesses. In March 2022, the new hotel opened. From the interior to the menus and the food, you can tell they have thought about the details.

What sets Zaza apart is not just its panoramic 360 views or chic design, but its commitment to service and a connection to the city. The drink names have the spirit of Cuenca (their cocktail presented as the cathedral is worth it for the presentation alone, it’s delicious too). It’s also inside, which makes it a great spot when you’re looking for views even on those rainy nights. 

I start with the Picada de la Casa. Sweet platanain balls, potato croquettes with goat cheese, patacon with with beef stew and cheese sauce. Followed by the salmon (the texture is great, and I grew up in Scandinavia known for salmon), with honey, orange and a delicious mousse verde. Ingredients are sourced within a 100-kilometer radius, and plastic usage is minimized, reflecting a commitment to sustainability. 

In case you don’t feel like leaving, the hotel of Zaza has 15 elegant rooms to choose from. Whether you’re a local or coming from far away, the team will make you feel at home.

Don Colon: A legend in Cuenca’s heart

Step into Don Colon, and you step into a piece of Cuenca’s history. On its walls are snapshots of the man himself—a legend whose roots trace from Ecuador to the bustling streets of the US, where he used to live for years chasing the American Dream, running successful restaurants.

Located right in the center, Don Colon is a eatery where old friends reunite, new friendships are formed, and conversations flow like the drinks they serve.

The menu is a global journey. From ceviche to the crunch of palomitas de camarón, quesadillas (he used to live in Mexico too) to hearty soups and fresh salads.

I try the Alfredo pasta with camarón, pairing it perfectly with a glass of white wine. A charming spot for a lunch, an early dinner, or a cup of rich coffee.

It’s not just the food that draws a diverse crowd—it’s the atmosphere. The hum of conversation blends with the clinking of glasses. Don Colon welcomes an international audience alongside locals, making it a perfect spot for people-watching and soaking in the Cuenca’s vibrant pulse.

Whether it’s a $3 Desayuno, a $4 Almuerzo, or a more elaborate Cena, Don Colon invites you to experience not just a meal, but a piece of Cuenca’s living history.

Tres Estrellas: The best place to eat cuy in town

Tres Estrellas is your go-to place to try cuy (guinea pig) in Cuenca, a specialty in Ecuador and even more so in this area. In Ecuador, this is more than dining; it’s a cherished tradition, an occasion to celebrate togetherness. This charming family-run resturant has been around since 1952 and established itself as a favorite among locals and visitors.

At Tres Estrellas, the cuy is always prepared on a carbon grill in the moment, so you better make a reservation as it takes approximately one hour. It’s juicy and served with traditional sides like montepillo, locro, and different sauces. While the cuy is the main reason people come here, you’ll also find lots of other traditional dishes on the menu.

The venue, with hanging bicycles, vintage vinyl CDs, and different rooms (like La Tienda and Los Cruces) perfect for private gatherings, is full of personality. Each detail tells a beautiful story of Fernando’s family and the area. The dad, who unfortunately passed away during the panademic, was a passionate collector who always wanted people to feel at home. And you can tell. Fernando and the team continue with the same dedication to tradition, personal + professional service, and innovation. From the moment you step in until you leave, you feel very well taken care of.

Whether you’re a local or are just passing by, Tres Estrellas is a great place for an intimate and welcoming setting where history, culture, and gastronomy come alive.

Rabbit Garden Cafe: Where coffee and cheesecake dreams come true

Jacobo’s Rabbit Garden Cafe, tucked away in a small shopping center, is a coffee lover’s paradise. While the menu features simple food like sandwiches and wraps, the main reason you come here is for heavenly desserts. Perfectly complemented by an extensive coffee and tea selection. 

The star of the show is their legendary cheesecakes. With an impressive 60+ different recipes, daily-changing flavors is a part of the charm. From timeless classics to inventive creations, every slice is an adventure. I try the blueberry/vanilla and it’s amazing. I also have one with figs, and it’s so good I’ll think about it sometimes. The unique structurado coffee, like an Irish coffee with a twist, combines just right.  

Jacobo’s dedication seems to lie in the family with his tía abuela (aunt grandmother) pioneering Cuenca’s espresso scene. He’s passionate about coffee, always learning, experimenting, and trying new stuff. Thoughtful details fill the space. From the cozy intimate ambiance with just a few tables, to witty WiFi passwords, showing his commitment to creating a unique, personal experience. 

Chatting with Jacobo, it’s clear that Rabbit Garden Cafe is his passion project. It’s not just a cafe; it’s his space for creativity, connection, and a continuous learning. With dreams of expansion, including the possibility of a full-fledged restaurant, it will be exciting to see what’s next. 

Romeo & Julieta: A romantic getaway with amazing views

Located atop the mountain in Turi, Romeo and Julieta restaurant welcomes you with traditional and fusion cuisine, personal service, and stunning views.

Started by a romantic, inspired by the desire to create something truly special, the concept was born. With its multi-level layout, including an open kitchen area, private dining caves made for those intimate moments, a terrace with amazing views, the restaurant offers a mix of unique dining experiences. 

I sit on the terrace and kick off with a Caipirinha Maracuyá, made on their own liqueur. Followed by a Blackberry Margarita, tasty and well-balanced. For starters, the Humitas Fritas, a cheesy wonder sets the tone. Followed by one of their specialities that combine meat and seafood. 

I end with dessert and a local shot of a liqueur from the region, a speciality of the house. 

While it’s more peaceful throughout the weekdays, in the weekends, they often organize events with live music. Whether you’re in the mood for a romantic night with someone special, an happening night with friends, or simply some quality time by yourself with the best view in Cuenca, Romeo and Julieta in Turi will give you a good experience. 

La Chicheria: A fusion of flavor and cultural preservation

La Chicheria embodies changing global perspectives – a shift towards local, sustainable choices. Started 4 years ago, it’s not just a restaurant. It’s a cultural movement, where gastronomy meets agriculture, and tradition embraces innovation.

It goes beyond dining, with events like chicha tastings and immersive culinary experiences.

Behind this local favorite is Chef Tatiana. She started in international gastronomy but felt something was missing. She sought her culinary identity in local agriculture, and joined local communities centered around connecting more with the origin of the food and fair conditions for the people in the industry. 

Here, chicha takes center stage, a traditional beverage fermented for months. From creative cocktails like “Chicha de tu Madre” (combining chicha de jora, chicha madre, Santo diablito, and a hint of zesty limon), to non-alchohol chichas and dishes you haven’t tried before. The menu is short and unique.

I go for the “Api de arveja y cerdo ahumado” where smoked pork and glazed carrots combine with a creamy pea soup. Followed by their chocolate cake and homemade ice cream. Eating here you’re reminded that cooking is art, everything is amazing.

As you enter La Chicheria, you step into a world where ingredients speak of seasons, where technique honors tradition, and where every bite tells a story of Ecuador’s rich culinary heritage. Come, taste, and join the movement towards a more sustainable future, where culinary excellence is intertwined with cultural preservation.

Distrito: Tapas in a hip vibe with unique events

Step into Distrito, where a modern restaurant intertwines with a 500-year-old street. It took a year of determination and negotiation to secure the permission that led to Distrito’s launch. Guided by the vision of Juan and Pablo, an engineer and lawyer duo who refused to let obstacles stand in the way, Distrito opened in 2020.

Distrito welcomes a diverse crowd of visitors and locals. With a focus on providing a memorable experience, the restaurant has become a popular destination for people seeking a unique night out. You’ll find a mix of tapas style and bigger dishes. I try the octopus, the delicious creamy rice with meat served in banan leaves, and their creative cocktails with creative presentations connected to Cuenca.

The essence of Distrito lies in its ability to offer more than just a meal. Live music nights, wine tastings with known experts, and curated events transform it into a hub of entertainment and culture. With plans to expan to Guayaquil and beyond, the future is exciting.

Trattoria Murano: Where tradition meets fusion

Trattoria Murano, a apart of Hotel Firenze, offers three distinct ambiences, each with its unique charm. The garden ambiance boasts high ceilings adorned with lush plants, a chic and alternative setting.

Begin your culinary journey with the Polpetta de la Nonna, flavorful meatballs doused in tomato sauce, basil, and olive oil, served with the house’s freshly baked bread.

I try the Fettuccini alla Carbonara, a Roman-inspired dish featuring pasta in a yolk-based sauce, crispy pancetta, and pecorino cheese. The pasta is a bit too soft for my taste (I’ve spent a lot of time in Italy) but the chef explains it’s adjusted for the local audience.

I try a pizza instead, and it’s delicious. They have a comprehensive wine list and unique cocktails like the Palermo 1.5, a distinctive blend of Punt e Mes, beer, and spicy jalapeño.

The fusion of Italian and Ecuadorian is evident in every aspect, harmoniously blending tradition with novelty. Established in November 2022, Trattoria Murano embraces its identity and invites you to eat with pleasure, laugh often, and enjoy every moment.

Bogoli: A charming, intimate rooftop hideaway

Bogoli is Firenze Hotel’s secluded rooftop experience with amazing views of the Cathedral. At night, the stars and moon light up the sky, setting the scene for an intimate evening.

The menu blends Italian and local influences, featuring a diverse range from ceviche to risotto. Their house cocktails, like the Airmail from Papua with Ron, almond, and beer, are delicious and creative. The tiramisu also takes me back to Italy for a while.

Chill music fills the air, creating a relaxed atmosphere. Bogoli is perfect for date nights, gatherings with friends, or quality time alone.

The basker-clad staff adds to the charm. Opened in Nov 2022, Bogoli masterfully mixes novelty and tradition.

The hotel’s slogan, “Come con piacere, Ríe spesso, Disfruta mucho,” echoes the ambiance. Sip on a refreshing Cereza Sour with whisky and amaretto or try the Punch de las 5 with Pisco and Earl Grey syrup, and make lasting memories.

El Pedregal Azteca: Authentic Mexican Delights

Discover the essence of Mexico at El Pedregal Azteca, a cherished family-run Cuenca restaurant since 1989. Owned by a native Mexican who fell in love with Cuenca decades ago, it capture the heart of Mexican cuisine.

Start with delicious margaritas or the Palomazo cocktail at their charming rooftop terrace. Homemade tostitas, served with tasty dips, set the stage. From classic tacos and enchiladas to innovative meat and fish dishes, the menu caters to all your cravings.

The quesadillas, crafted with care using small corn tortillas filled with chicken, ground beef, and potato with fried sausage are a great way to start. The Mole con Pollo, made with 24 ingredients, is one of the specialities of the house. Unique and authentic with creative sides. So good that all you’ll ask for is more.

Top it all up with the Buñelo Xuecuca (nothling like the buñelo you might have heard of in Colombia), a unique traditional dessert, accompanied by a perfect espresso.

The service is great. They have many loyal customers who keep on returning. And once you’ve been here, you understand why.

Sucré Salé: A culinary and cultural journey across Cuenca

Sucré Salé has etched its legacy across Cuenca by embracing different corners of the city with its distinct venues. It all began with the original cafe, a charming establishment located in the heart of the city next to the bustling plaza. For over a decade, it has been a haven for those seeking not just amazing coffee and pastries (don’t miss their Crème brûlée, it’s perfect), but a place where art and music converge. Their regular events, like Jazz Tuesdays and Open Mic Wednesdays, keep on charming locals and visitors. 

Building upon its success, they opened a second location in Turi where I have dinner. Located a bit lower than the other restaurants in Turi, still with amazing vistas, it feels like a little secret (the word will spread soon though). I try their delicious arepas and a passionfruit caipirinha. Followed by the fish as a main and their tasty brownie. A great way to start the night!

Recently they also introduced a third venue by the stadio. With each resturant offering a unique ambiance and culinary flair, Sucré Salé is like a symbol of creativity, cultural enrichment, and a true celebration of Cuenca’s diverse soul. Run by a team who loves their city, coming here will give you a taste of what makes Cuenca so special. 

Raymipampa: Cuenca’s oldest restaurant

Established in 1933, Raymipampa stands as Cuenca’s oldest resturant. Still run by the same family, it attracts a mixed crowd of tourists and locals (many locals regularly come here for family lunches and dinners).

Located on the bustling main plaza with two inviting floors, it’s rustic interior feels like a mix of the past and present. The walls are covered with photos from back in the days.

Their menu blends traditional and international dishes. I start with a creamy Locro, followed by the “típico”, with Montepillo and Montesucio that reflect the heart of Cuenca’s cuisine. I end with a crepe with strawberries and chocolate, which according to the waiter, is the best dessert of the house.

The food isn’t extraordinary, but it’s good. Come here for history and a simple, traditional experience. 

Restaurants I’ve heard are good but didn’t try this time:

• Le Petit Jardin
• Tiesto’s Cafe Restaurant
• Capitan

What to do in Cuenca

While visiting Cuenca, there are several activities you shouldn’t miss.

Explore the old town

Start by exploring the city’s historic center. Wander through the cobblestone streets, the colonial architecture, and visit the iconic blue-domed Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception.

Take a stroll along the Tomebamba Riverwalk, a picturesque path that offers beautiful views of the city. If you’re in the mood, visit some of the many museums and galleries. Mampui, the Museo de las Conceptas, Museo del Sombrero, and Museo de las Culturas Aborígenes are just a few examples waiting to be explored.

Go on an authentic neighborhoods tour

Explore Cuenca beyond the tourist attractions on a customized neighborhood tour. Run by the local guide Xavier (who also manages Otorongo aparments above) this is a great option if you’re thinking about moving to Cuenca/being based here for longer. Or just want to get a more in-depth understanding of the city!

I love neighborhood hopping. We pass by viewpoints, local cafes, and even an elderly care center, as one of the people in our group has an older relative he’s thinking about bringing to Cuenca. Javier explains the ups and downs of different neighborhoods and how it all comes together. There are no questions you can’t ask.

What sets this tour apart is how it goes beyond the surface in a fun, personal way. Xavier’s commitment to showcasing the authentic side of Cuenca shines through. For a fun and meaningful exploration of the city, this is it!

Take a city bus tour and explore Turi

When you ask locals what you shouldn’t miss in Cuenca, everyone mentions Turi. A neighborhood located on a hill with gorgeous views of the city and the surrounding mountains. Weddings usually take place here every weekend due to how pretty the location is. It’s especially beautiful around sunset!

I take a panorama city bus tour with a local company. I’m usually not a fan of super touristy experiences but this one is run by a local family who loves their city and the only double-decker bus in town. They organize private experiences open to the public and have served everything from tourists and celebrities to Ecuador’s football team.

The audio guide walks you through Cuenca’s most iconic sites, from rooftops to gardens, museums to cathedrals. Once you arrive in Turi, you can stop there for lunch or dinner (both Romeo and Julieta and Sucré y Salé mentioned above are located there, among many more restaurants) and just take a later bus or taxi back down. You’ll also get a little welcome drink. The same company organizes other group experiences to a chocolate fabric and Cajas as well.

It’s a good way to get a brief overview of the city which you then can dive more into on your own or with private guides.

In case you’re looking for a little workout, you can also hike up to Turi.

Go for a chocolate experience at Pacari

While originally from the Quito area, this well-known Ecuadorian chocolate brand. has two locations in Cuenca. Pacari is famous for producing high-quality organic chocolate made from native Ecuadorian cacao beans, now available across 40 global markets. 

If you are a chocolate lover or interested in sustainable and ethical food practices, stopping at Pacari’s is a great choice. Learn about the chocolate-making process, and enjoy one of their chocolate tasting sessions (they have 45+ chocolate bars, ice cream, cakes, and more) matched with creative cocktails. 

It has taken home more than 300 national and international awards, including an collection of 22 accolades from the prestigious International Chocolate Awards.

Pacari’s success is rooted in a blend of innovation, sustainability, and social responsibility. Their “tree to bar” philosophy nurtures close relationships with local small-scale farmers and boosts the quality of their organic products.

The founder Santiago Peralta’s vision extends beyond delicious flavors. He aims to transform the chocolate industry by integrating fair trade practices and elevating the economic well-being of local communities. This commitment to ethical commerce enriches the entire value chain, from the fields to production lines.

The brand’s shift to biodegradable packaging and the innovative elimination of cardboard encasing for select signature bars have earned recognition from global bodies such as the United Nations Global Compact.

The location in the old town is beautiful and adds to the vibe. It’s more than a cafe, it’s an experience. The service is personal and everything I try, from the ice cream to the different chocolate flavors you can bring home, and the choocolate cake, is delicious! 

The best places to shop in Cuenca

Cuenca is known for its markets, where you can find everything from fresh produce to handmade crafts. The Mercado 10 de Agosto is one of the most popular ones, where you can purchase fruits, vegetables, and local delicacies.

If you’re looking for unique souvenirs and artisanal goods, head to the Plaza de las Flores. This market square is filled with stalls selling beautiful ceramics, textiles, and jewelry made by local artisans.

You can also visit one of the city’s shopping malls. The Mall del Rio and El Vergel are two popular malls where you’ll find a wide range of international and local brands.

Outdoor Adventures in Cuenca

If you’re an adventure enthusiast, Cuenca has plenty to offer. The surrounding area is a paradise for nature lovers and outdoor enthusiasts.

One of the top attractions near Cuenca is the Cajas National Park, known for its stunning landscapes and diverse ecosystems. Hiking enthusiasts will love exploring the park’s trails that lead to breathtaking lakes and mountain views. If you’re into climbing, you’ve got lots of options too.

For those seeking an adrenaline rush, The Jadan, Tomebamba, and Paute rivers offer rafting on a range of difficulty levels.

Off-the-beaten-path hike in Cajas 

I escape the usual tourist trails and join a group of local women for a hike in the stunning Cajas National Park. We pass by beautiful views, mountain lakes and chat about everything and nothing.

Led by Samara, who also manages the Otorongo apartments above, an expert guide with a passion for showcasing the authentic beauty of Cajas. This is a great way to escape the crowds. She organizes customized hikes and climbing experiences.

Exploring Cuenca’s cultural scene

Cuenca’s cultural scene is a testament to its historical significance and vibrant artistic community. The city is home to numerous museums, galleries, and cultural centers.

The Museum of Modern Art, located in the historic center, showcases a diverse collection of contemporary art from local and international artists. 

For a deeper understanding of Cuenca’s history and culture, visit the Pumapungo Archaeological Park. This expansive site houses impressive ruins from the Inca civilization and offers insight into the city’s past.

Casa de la Cultura Ecuatoriana Benjamin Carrion is a hub for cultural activities, hosting exhibitions, concerts, and theater performances throughout the year. Keep an eye out for upcoming events during your visit.

Enjoying the nightlife in Cuenca

When the sun goes down, you have several cozy bars to choose from. Cuenca isn’t the place that offers the best party scene, but there are 1-2 clubs where everyone goes. So you can expect all ages and styles. I didn’t pass by these this time, but tried a salsa place (below) and lots of bars/resturants (detailed above).

If you’re in the mood for some live music, Cuenca has a great selection of venues that host bands and musicians from various genres. Such as Sucré y Salé och El Distrito (mentioned above).

La Mesa Salsa & Son: Cuenca’s only Salsotecca

For over two decades, La Mesa Salsa & Son has been Cuenca’s premier destination for salsa and Cuban son. This iconic Salsoteca, founded in 1997, has been the heartbeat of the city’s dance and music scene.

#Miercolesdelamesa, a cherished tradition offering a midweek escape from the stresses of life. La Mesa goes beyond entertainment, supporting local culture and art. Since 2019, #LaSucursaldeLaSalsa has brought dance workshops and tropical vibes to the heart of Cuenca.

With slogans like #QuelaSalsaTeAcompañe (#MaySalsaAccompanyYou) and #LaSucursaldeLaSalsa, the small venue has personality.

Run by Christian, who used to be a firefighter, together with his team who seems like family (the bartender Miguel has worked here for about 20 years!). From Salsa Wednesdays to Tropical Nights, La Mesa is a good option when you’re in the mood to dance.

Is Cuenca a good place to live?

Cuenca has been consistently ranked as one of the best places to retire or live abroad in various international surveys. The city’s pleasant climate, low cost of living, saftey, and welcoming community make it an attractive destination for expats.

Additionally, Cuenca offers quality healthcare facilities and a strong infrastructure. The well-maintained parks, reliable public transportation, and access to modern amenities make everyday life comfortable and convenient.

Like any city, Cuenca has its pros and cons. It’s important to consider factors key to you. I can definitely see myself being based here again!

Where to go from Cuenca (places worth visiting nearby)

If you have extra time in Cuenca, there are several nearby destinations worth exploring.
One popular option is the charming town of Gualaceo, known for its traditional markets and exquisite handicrafts. Explore the bustling streets and discover unique woven textiles, embroidered clothing, and intricate jewelry.

The Ingapirca Archaeological Complex is the largest Inca ruins in Ecuador. Explore the ancient stone structures and learn about the Inca civilization’s history and influence in the region.

There are many more charming villages around. You’re also just a short drive from Baños (not the famous town in Ecuador, there are two) with thermal pools and about 3-4 hours from Manabi. Known for having some of the best food and beautiful beaches!

Ready to come over to Cuenca?

From culture to amazing food, charming locals, and outdoor adventures, Cuenca offers something for everyone. Whether you’re visiting for a short getaway or considering making Cuenca your new home, the only questions now is: when are you coming over?

Questions or would you like to add anything? Let us know in the comments!