Bento Gonçalves – Brazil’s Wine Capital Deserves Your Attention

Set about 3 hours away from Puerto Alegre in the South of Brazil, Bento Gonçalves welcomes you with a different scene. While the city centre won’t make you fall in love, the gastronomy, the amazing places close by, and of course, Vale dos Vinhedos (the wine), will win you over. 

Shadowed by the neighbors Chile and Argentina, most wine enthusiasts don’t prioritize Brazil. And travelers who come here, often choose destinations such as Rio, Salvador, and Iguazú. 

While it’s hard to blame them, Brazil offers so much more. 

Bento Gonçalves is a great destination for an authentic experience unlike the stereotype of Brazil. Step into a world strongly influenced by Italian immigration, where delicious cuisine and some of the best sparkling wine in the world are never far away.  

Bento Gonçalves Might
Not Be Love At First Sight

Nothing special is my first impression when arriving to the centre of Bento Gonçalves. I’ve been driving through the dark for the past hours to get here, and not seen any of the supposedly pretty nature (think wine fields) which made me want to visit in the first place. 

It looks like an average mid-sized town. You know, that kind of place that doesn’t have attractions. 

I’m staying at an Airbnb close by the centre owned by a cute local couple. The woman is of Italian heritage and grew up in Bento Gonçalves. We have delicious cheese in their kitchen, while they tell me about how Bento has transformed over the past years.

“We love it here, but it’s very different from what it used to be. Tourism has increased by more than 400 %. People are moving here. The food is more diverse. Italian used to be the only option. People are more open-minded now. It’s good for the town.”

How Bento Gonçalves
Became Brazil’s Wine Capital

In 1875, Brazil’s government created 4 settlements to receive Italian immigrants. Bento, then called Dona Isabel, was one of these and received the first families of Italians in the same year. The majority of the Italian immigrants worked in grape and wine production.

The population grew quickly, transforming Bento into the wine capital of Brazil, and the center of Italian immigration, that it is today. 

I take a walk through the center. Apart from the small wine fountain, which looks like it had its glory days already, there is not much to take note of in the city center of Bento.

The ambiance reminds me of Europe. People are friendly, but more reserved in comparison with the north of Brazil. Many locals are naturally of Italian heritage, have light skin, and still speak Italian. It’s so different from the (my old) stereotype of Brazil. 

While 1,5 millions of people visited Bento in 2017, the majority of the tourists are from Latin America. Information in English is still limited and many ask me how I found my way here.

The Brazilian Wine Industry
Is Bigger Than You Think

The following day, it’s time to explore the wineries. About 5 kilometers outside of the city centre, we’re suddenly surrounded by wine fields, mountain peaks, and those picturesque postcard views with lovely cottages, each one more gorgeous than the other.

Vale dos Vinhedos, located in between the cities of Bento Gonçalves, Garibaldi and Monte Belo do Sul, consist of approximately 25 wineries. Most have received several awards, and the area is known for producing some of the world’s best sparkling wines. 

I learn that Brazil’s wine industry is relatively new. The local wineries used to be protected from foreign competition. When the economy opened up in 1990, and countries like Chile and Argentina entered, the local bodegas started to level up their standards to survive.

The industry has boomed ever since.

These days, Brazil is considered to be the 5th largest wine production in the Southern Hemisphere. With 1,000+ wineries spread out across 79,000 hectares of vineyards, they produce more wine than well-known wine destinations such as New Zealand. The majority are family run wineries (90 %, more than 20,000 winemaking families), who produce smaller amounts for themselves or to sell through specific networks (collectives). 

Grape Varieties And Wine Production In Brazil

Even if the wine selection in Brazil is smaller in comparison with wine meccas such as Argentina and Chile, it’s so good that it’s worth traveling for. 

Merlot, Tannat, Chardonnay, Italian Riesling, Cabernet Sauvignon, Muscat, and Cabernet Franc are the most common varietals, the first being the most popular.

Brazil’s sparkling wine has been named the best in the world several times.

You will also find new favorites among the still red and white wines, and probably the best grape juice you’ve ever had. 50 % of Brazil’s harvested grapes are used to make organic, divine grape juice. 

Wineries Close By
Bento Gonçalves Worth Visiting

Salton

Our first stop is Salton, recognized as one of Brazil’s leading wineries. Founded in 1878, it’s run by the 4th family generation. Salton is what you can expect from a large top producer; modern, with a great collection of award-winning wines.

I try the Pradoxo Merlot, a refreshing red wine with aromas of red fruits and almonds. The Intenso Merlot & Tannat is full of flavors – plum, cherry, blackberries, coffee, and walnuts come perfectly together. The Pinot Noir Lucia Canei, which has been named the world’s best sparkling wine, is fruity and delicious. Even if I personally prefer smaller wineries, Salton is worth checking out.

Maria Valduga

 

We continue to the traditional Maria Valduga, which has been around since 1875. Known for its wine and amazing gastronomy, it’s still run by the Valduga brothers with the vision to be the best winery in Brazil.

You shouldn’t leave Valduga without eating. I have the rodizio for lunch, which is like a buffet served plate by plate at the table until you can’t take anymore. Think homemade pastas, incredible sauces, spring chicken, ribs and traditional desserts, each one paired with the right wine.

I love their multi-awardwinning Gran Raizes, a dry, red wine made of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Tannat. The flavor is intense and complex, with notes of coffee, blackberry, plum and spices. Valduga also produces strong liqueurs, brandy, and grappa.

In case you don’t feel like leaving, Maria Valduga is also a guest house.

Aurora

 

Over the next days, I visit Aurora, Brazil’s biggest and most award-winning winery. It’s more commercial, and accessible. Aurora is a cooperative which started with 16 families in 1931. It has since then grown to 1.100 members. They own 30% of the Brazilian Wine market. You will find several budget wines from Aurora in the supermarkets, as well as more exclusive bottles.

Something that stands out is their projects to educate youths and encourage them to step into the world of wine production. 

At the end of the on-site tour, they offer a very generous tasting. We start with a refreshing sparkling Moscato, and work our way through all the highlights. Its Reserva Chardonnay is well balanced, with a fruity aroma and hints of Vanilla. The Reserva Merlot, a lighter red wine, is elegant and easy to drink. 

While Aurora is one of the more commercial wineries in Bento Gonçalves, it’s a good option if you would like to drink (lots of) delicious wine at a bodega in the city.

Miolo Winery

 

On Saturday night the same week, I’m invited to a sunset party at the Miolo Winery. The Miolo Wine Group has 4 wineries in different parts of Brazil. They are the leading wine exporter in the country and produce 10 million liters per year. 

The Miolo property in Bento Gonçalves is gorgeous with everything an idyllic vineyard should have.

The event, which is organized once a month every summer, is elegant and different from what I’ve seen in Bento so far. It could be taken directly from a classy bar in New York. The music is great. So are the views, and the sparkling wine Millésime Brut, which has been named the best sparkling wine in the Southern Hempsphere.  What better way to spend a night in a wine capital?

Other Wineries Worth
Visiting In Vale dos Vinhedos

I meet many locals during my time in Bento, and everyone has different favorite wineries. You could spend months here sampling your way around. A few other wineries worth visiting are:

• Peterlongo: Founded in 1915, it is the only winery in Brazil to produce champagne thanks to the method brought by Italian immigrant Manoel Peterlongo. It’s made according to the teachings of the French Don Perignon, the method called Champenoise. Known as pioneers, Peterlongo was the first Brazilian winery to employ female labor, and the first in the region to pay the minimum wage to their workers.

• Torcello: With a small annual production of only 20,000 bottles of red and white wines, 15,000 bottles of sparkling wine and 60,000 bottles of grape juice, Torcello is all about quality. Founded in 2000 by Rogério Carlos Valduga, the fourth generation of the Valduga Family, you come here for unique wines full of personality.

• Don Laurindo: While Don Laurindo’s history goes back to the 1800th century, starting with wine that was intended for family consumption, the brand was first launched in 1991. Over the years it has developed to a production of fine wines of noble varieties.

• Cave Geisse: Geisse was the first Chardonnay vineyard that deployed spreader systems and worked with controlled production rates in the region, considered a milestone within Brazilian winegrowing. Today, 100% of the Geisse vineyards in Pinto Bandeira are run in an eco-efficient manner, where only land with the essential characteristics for growing excellent Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes is good enough.

• Cantina Strapazzon: A lovely rustic family winery located on Caminho das Pedras (more about that below). The property has been used as a filming location for several movies and series about the Italian colonization in the region, such as The Quatrilho. Strapazzon produces a very limited selection of tasty wines, which you can only buy on-site. You will also be able to try some delicious cheese and charcuterie once you’re here.

• Março Luigi: Always innovating, with the goal of making customized products for the most demanding customers who are looking for unique wines. Marco Luigi’s wines are primarily sold to specialty stores, restaurants, hotels, and directly to consumers. The production is limited and environmental-friendly.

The Gastronomy Outside Of The Wineries
In Bento Gonçalves Is Amazing Too

Gastronomy-wise, Bento is like a Little Italy with a Brazilian twist. While it’s something special about enjoying a meal with amazing wine while looking out over wine fields, there are great options outside of the bodegas too. 

I’ve lunch at Canta Maria close by the centre. They offer a rodizio with pastas caseras and meat. The tortei, a local pasta, is so good that I know that I will be thinking about it sometimes. The food is amazing and the service is personal.

Dona Carolina is the perfect dinner getaway. It’s the restaurant of the hotel Castello Benvenutti, and literally a castle. The setting is romantic, perfect for couples or intimate gatherings. The food is lovely, and so is the wine. 

Over the next few days, I have lunch at Trattoria do Sabor in the middle of the city. It’s fresh, tasty and simple. While the per-kilo buffet isn’t the biggest, it features more than you need to be happy. Apart from delicious meat and lasagne, there are simple salads and desserts. The charming cafe Primacía is just a short walk away. It’s easy to spend hours on its little terrace on the second floor. The giant cakes are reason alone to come here, and the service will make you want to come back.

Bistro Café com Arte is another place worth checking out, if you happen to be in the neighborhood. The service is friendly, the patio lovely, and my risotto perfectly creamy. Café do Armazém, a cozy cafe close by, it’s a great addition if you feel like dessert or coffee. The owner is cute and seems to know every customer. Don’t miss the delicious fresh juices and the amazing pastels with parma ham.

Other Great Restaurants
In Bento Gonçalves To Try

The following are a few other restaurants recommended by local friends that I didn’t get the chance to try this time:

• Casa DiPaolo – Traditional and supposedly amazing Italian food
• Mamma Gema – Lovely trattoria with a homely feeling
• Pizza Entre Vinhos – ‘The best pizza in Bento’
• Otto e Mezzo – Great pizza, beer, and dessert

Bars In Bento Gonçalves

Bar-wise I visit the Underground Lounge, a copy of the typical bar concept in the UK, but with good cocktails. Rua Hugo Dreher is full of options, like Botequim São Bento, simple but OK for a little something. Bangalo, the only Club in Bento Gonçalves, isn’t really my type of scene. We have good night here but more because of the group I’m with, than the place. People here get pretty drunk and we leave before closing time.

If you want a happening nightlife, you are better off at one of the wineyard parties (which are organized by Bangalo though, but great), bar-hopping – or at a different destination.

Other Experiences Not To
Miss In Bento Gonçalves

If you’re not eating or drinking wine in Bento, you are most likely exploring nature and history. El Caminho Das Pedras is a must-do 12 km long road with several stops that introduce you to the culture and history of the region. While it’s a touristy route, it is a favorite among the locals too. 

I spend 4 hours here, which is fine, but I could have easily spent the whole day since most of the stops are perfect for unwinding and enjoying life. Eat, drink wine, learn about traditions, while being surrounded by gorgeous views. What not to like?

I try cuca at the House of Cucas Vitiaceri for the first time, a tasty sweet which originates from Germany, very common in the south of Brazil.

I stop at the Mate Museum to learn about how the production has developed over the years. I have wine at Strappazon (mentioned under wineries above) and the Salvati & Sirena Winery. It’s delicious, as most wine I’ve had in Brazil so far, and the staff is very knowledgeable.

Other highlights are the sheep farm, the local designers shops, and the salami fabric, where you can try up to 12 types of salami. The Tomato House is something different. Apparently you can make anything out of tomato, and I mean really anything.

While there are restaurants along Caminho das Pedras, Casa Vanni being one of the more recommended ones, many locals prefer having lunch elsewhere. 

Traveling Back In Time With Maria Fumaça

On my last day, I go for the Maria Fumaça experience which, apart from touring the wineries, is the main attraction in Bento. It’s managed by Giordani, a local family-run tourism agency.

Maria Fumaca is a touristy experience, but the locals like it too. It’s an interactive tour with actors that bring you back to the days of the Italian immigration. I was impressed by how well it was set up and don’t think you should leave without doing it. I took the full experience, which includes a visit to the Parque Cultural Epopeia. The different environments are so well done that it really feels like going back in time. 

The Fumaça train takes me on a route of 23 km from Bento Gonçalves to the neighboring town Garibaldi, and Carlos Barbosa. The train trip lasts about 1,5 hour with wine tasting, sketches, and traditional music shows. When we arrive at the platform,  free flow of more delicious wine, grape juice and live music await. I could not have ended my stay in any better way.

Bento Gonçalves Will Have
You Wanting To Come Back

It’s time to leave Bento, and I realize that I’ve started to like this city more than I imagined. While it’s easy to become sentimental when you’ve had a few glasses of wine, that isn’t the only reason.

What comes to mind are the people I’ve met, the incredible gastronomy, the views, well – in combination with amazing wine. While the culture is a bit more reserved, people are genuinely friendly, and the service is great.

Everyone who lives in Bento seems to love it. I’ve met some who’ve left and returned home, and others from bigger cities close by who “escape to the mountains whenever they get the chance”.

Next time, I would stay in Vale dos Vinhedos. There are great accommodation options, such as Hotel & Spa do Vinho. Surrounded by vineyards, it features a spa, a heated outdoor pool, gorgeous views, and a restaurant with regional delicacies.

In the center, Pousada Don Marini is a good option with a great location.

While Bento won’t replace any of the other major wine destinations, it’s just something else, it’s an exciting addition to your bucket list. Come here to sip on lovely espumante while enjoying some of the best gastronomy in Brazil. Enjoy cultural experiences that let you travel back in time, and get a better understanding of Brazil’s unique history.  Tourism is only expected to increase, so you better visit before rumors spread.

Ready to experience Bento Gonçalves? Let me know what you think – and please have a glass of wine for me too. 🙂