15 km east of Faro, you’ll find the picturesque, pedestrian-only, Armona Island.
If you’re based in Faro or Olhão and feel like changing scene for a while, this little paradise makes a great day excursion. With its unique island charm, it envelopes a calm bay filled with small fishing boats and cute houses along the (only) main street. This is where you’ll be wanting to take pictures at every turn, to remember that the views were real.
Bring a book, a few podcasts, or just your own thoughts, and unwind on long, oh-so-fine beaches. You’ll get into island mode straight away.
How to get from Olhão or Faro to Armona
Photo: Faro Airport Transfers Algarve
If you’re based in Olhão, you can take a 20 min ferry directly from the ferry terminal in Olhão to Armona. If you’re based in Faro, there are 3 different ways to get from Faro to Olhão, to catch the boat to Armona.
By car
It won’t take much more than 10 minutes to drive from Faro to Olhão. Rental cars can be pretty affordable in Portugal, at least if you book in advance. Prices naturally rise during high season (June-September for South of Portugal). There are also lots of taxis with an approximate cost of 18€ (from Faro Airport to Olhão).
By bus
There are several daily buses between Faro and Olhão. The price is 3.25€ for a one-way ticket and the route usually starts at the station in both cities. You can check out the detailed schedule and even purchase your ticket at EVA’s website.
By train
The train leaves about once every hour. The trip, with a cost of 1,45€ for a one-way ticket, takes 10 min. The train leaves from the train station, which is located next to the bus station in Faro.
The ferry from Olhão to Armona
Once you’ve reached Olhão, the boat to Armona usually departs once every hour. They often leave on time. In addition to the normal ferry (3-4€ for a return trip), there are taxi boats that charge about 25€ for up to 8 people (one-way). It’s very easy to take the ferry, and a great way to see more of the beautiful Ria Formosa.
Ria Formosa from above. Photo: The Portugal Resident
You can also take a tour and explore several islands at the same time. I’m not the tour-kind-of-person, even though it might be a good option if you’re short on time. The cost for a tour ranges between 20-40€. There are many other websites that outline that experience more in detail.
Exploring Olhão
Photo: Portugal Travel Guide
If you got time to spare, wander the streets of Olhão, a cute town with about 40.000 inhabitants. Tourists from all over the world are drawn here since it’s the perfect base for exploring the stunning Ria Formosa.
Make sure to book your accommodation in advance if you’re planning to base yourself here during high-season. There were almost no rooms available when I went (end of August), and most of the hotels were fully occupied until mid of September.
What to do in Olhão
Even if you just come here for the day, you won’t need much time to explore the small, but charming, centre of Olhão. If you’re looking for the main tourist attractions, the old town, including the cathedral and the food market, are your go-to places.
The market is full of fresh fruit and seafood. There are several restaurants just outside where you can have lunch or dinner. Visit on a Saturday if you can, since the market then expands and becomes one of the biggest in the area.
I had a delicious lunch with a glass of rosé at Lagar Mar, a Portuguese restaurant recommended to me by a local lady. The little gourmet coffee shop inside the market is a great stop for a fresh juice or a coffee.
Once you’re done, take a 5 min stroll along the river to the ferry terminal and buy your ticket. On the way to the terminal, there are lots of small stalls where you can get yourself a little overpriced souvenir.
The Armona Island – Love at first sight
After a 20 min scenic boat ride, you’ll reach the harbour of Armona. There is a beach and a few restaurants right there. If you’re traveling during high season, it will probably be crowded.
The most beautiful beach is located a 15 min walk away from the harbour, which will give you just enough time to fall in love with Armona. It’s impossible to get lost, there are not really any other roads.
Cute houses with coral and turquoise details, each one more gorgeous than the last, are lined up along the way. I could stay in every single one, at least for a couple of days. If you’re more of a small-town-kind-of-person, you might feel like staying forever.
A local man tells me that many foreigners from ‘everywhere’ have bought houses on Armona. Once you’re here, it’s easy to understand why.
The beach of Armona
About 200 m before reaching the beach, there is one restaurant called San Antonio / Belgas to your right. This is the last proper place before you will end up on the beach itself. The kitchen is usually closed between 4-7pm.
If you were planning for a romantic lunch or dinner on the beach, you better bring your own food from one of the shops at the harbour and enjoy a picnic, or take a short walk back to the restaurant. By the beach, you’ll only find a little beach bar that serves drinks and snacks.
Enjoy gorgeous views while the tide is low
If the tide is low when you get down to the beach, make sure to take a walk as soon as you get there to check out the beautiful bay. The views are just stunning. The water is so inviting and blue. I didn’t even think about the tide, but was lucky, since it looked magical when I got there.
About one hour later, the tide got higher. Even it still is beautiful, it looked more like a normal beach.
Where to stay on Armona
Armona Beach. Photo: Algarve Days
In case you don’t feel like leaving after a day in paradise, you won’t be the first one to feel that way.
There are no hotels on Armona. ‘If you would like to spend the night here, you just have to make some connections and rent directly’ a local tells me.
Airbnb seems to be quite developed here by now though. If you don’t have an Airbnb account yet, you can sign up here and receive $41 in travel credit as a welcome gift. There is also a camping site on Armona. Another option is to stay in Olhão or even in Faro. Both are great bases to explore the area.
Whatever you decide, Armona is a paradise that will leave you wanting to come back for more.
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